Author Topic: Sanitizing Caves  (Read 4791 times)

Offline Cartierusm

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Sanitizing Caves
« on: February 16, 2009, 10:09:25 AM »
So I've had my fair share over the years of converting everything and anything into temp and humidity controlled containers. I usually start by unloading my truck in my drive way and soaping the entire thing up and hosing it off, I do this a couple of times. If it's for normal use I won't sterilize, dish soap is good enough. I used Lysol on my small frig I got a few months ago, I had a brain freeze and wasn't thinking, well it's extremely hard to get rid of that smell.

Here's my advice for anyone looking to clean and sanitize a freezer or frig. First use dish soap on the outside and inside, outside preferable and hose off to get every nook and cranny clean. Make sure to use a soft sponge in the grooves of the gasket on the door. The gasket is a harbor for bacteria and mold. Next, once the inside is dry, KEEP it unplugged and close the door overnight. Clear out your nostrils with fresh air and then open the door and smell. If it's good move on to the sterilization phase below. A little for-word all freezer and fridges when they are not turn on and at room temp (well at least not cold) they will all have a slight funky smell, it's just the nature of the materials used. If you still smell a slight smell that might be normal to a frig plug it in and smell again the next day. If it's gone then move on to the sterilization phase.

If you still smell something I've learned recently, since my new cave that turned out to be a bust had a horrible freezer burn smell even though I scrubbed it with soap 3 times, bleach does more than just sanitize, it kills everything including odors that regular sanitizers don't touch. So my new regiment is to, make sure it's unplugged, wash it with soap and water, then take a spray bottle with a diluted bleach solution and spray it on. Wait no more than one hour and hose off, then scrub with dish soap again. After that continue until the bleach smell is gone. Once dry do what I suggested above close the door with the frig off and smell.

If after this it smells good then take a bottle of mixed up Star San and spray the entire interior and door. Let it dry and you're good to go.

Basically what I learned is if you spray simple green or lysol or something else with the intent to get rid of a smell and you're stuck with that chemical smell, then Bleach is the intermediate step where it will kill other smells artificial or natural, but it is not hard to wash off, so you need stages.

LadyLiberty

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2009, 10:30:35 AM »
what about white vinegar?

Offline Cartierusm

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2009, 08:34:38 PM »
To me vinegar always leaves a smell and is hard to wash out. But if it kills other smells and you can wash it out completely then go for it.

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2009, 03:35:10 PM »
Crumpled up newpaper will remove smells in a fridge or other enclosed containers. It will even remove the smell of rootbeer which is about the hardest smell to get rid of.

Cheese Head

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2009, 07:14:21 PM »
I like rootbear and don't know why anyone would want to get rid of it ;D . . . OK wait, rootbear flavoured cheese :o . . . naaa!

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2009, 12:13:51 AM »
I love rootbeer too but whenever I keg some rootbeer I have to put newspapers in it for a week to get the smell out for beer and these are stainless steel corney kegs!

driekus

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2010, 11:40:12 PM »
I would suggest using 70% Ethanol or 70% Isoproponol. Excellent sanitation property and no residue.

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2010, 01:24:14 AM »
I am using half half mixed white vinegar and methylated spirit in an atomizer and spray and wipe. My wife discovered that it is even good for ants when she used it to get rid of them one day accidentally.

If there are any build up of fat, salt and other greases, I clean those first with soapy warm water.

driekus

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2010, 04:13:58 AM »
Now that is a very interesting mix :) 50% alcohol is enough to kill most bacteria, the 50% vinegar puts another nail in the coffin

micah

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2010, 05:50:32 PM »
I use a sanitizing product called "Phos-Quat 30-10" which is made specifically for the dairy industry.  It is particularly good at targeting mold/mildew/bacteria.  It also is long lasting (weeks) when applied to hard surfaces.

LadyLiberty

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2010, 02:39:39 AM »
Crumpled up newpaper will remove smells in a fridge or other enclosed containers. It will even remove the smell of rootbeer which is about the hardest smell to get rid of.

Why is that?

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2010, 03:24:39 AM »
I have no idea why it works just one of those things Mama used to do and it works. Rootbeer was a summer treats she made that she could never completely get rid of without the newpaper.

Brie

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #12 on: February 14, 2010, 07:16:56 AM »
I use a sanitizing product called "Phos-Quat 30-10" which is made specifically for the dairy industry.  It is particularly good at targeting mold/mildew/bacteria.  It also is long lasting (weeks) when applied to hard surfaces.
Where did you purchase this at, Micah?

micah

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #13 on: February 16, 2010, 06:53:32 PM »
I was given a 5 gallon container of Phos-Quat about 15 years ago.  A friend of mine is the former head brewer for several of the more well known microbreweries here in Seattle; when he stopped home brewing I inherited several  home breweries worth of equipment.

It dilutes at 1 oz per 4 gallons so I pretty much have a life time supply.  I was worried about the shelf life some years back and called the manufacturer.  I talked to someone in their lab and she said it seems to have a pretty much indefinite shelf life.

The manufacturer is in Olympia, Wa (there are other "quat" product manufacturers).  I'd guess a retailer for dairy supplies could hook you up.


cheesehead

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Re: Sanitizing Caves
« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2010, 05:19:18 AM »
I've pulled quats out of my sanitization program -- they were too harsh to deal with, residual issues...

A good and cheap investment is test strips for chlorine that read 0-200ppm.  You can buy them in a small tube with ~100 litmus strips and you can be frugal with them (use one end and then the other...)  Its a complete waste to have stronger than 200ppm chlorine and not effective to be under 70ppm.

I always use a sanitizer rinse of 150ppm chlorine on food contact equipment after washing.  Not food contact equipment I use a mix of peracetic acid with hydrogen peroxide and spray down walls and other surfaces with that.


Sanitizer is not a magical fix for dirty items, you can only sanitize clean surfaces...

hth