Author Topic: Council is necessary  (Read 4283 times)

svetlen

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Council is necessary
« on: May 26, 2014, 11:30:17 AM »
I want to make cheese in the Swiss style. There is from thermophilic only Biena (Abiasa) "Thermo B", Not absolutely that is necessary on structure. Whether it is possible to use for the Swiss, Alpine cheese with high temperature of heating 52-58C.

WovenMeadows

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2014, 12:25:34 PM »
"Thermo C" is more traditional for Swiss and Alpine Cheeses. "Thermo B" is more for many Italian cheeses.

Offline Bear and Bunny cheese

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2014, 12:39:27 PM »
Hello Svetlen, 
  If possible try to find TA60 (Streptococcus Thermophillic) and Lactobacillus Helveticus (LH 100) along with Propionibacterium freudenreichii for eye formation.  Not sure if you can find these in Ukraine.  Culture and rennet at 90F, for 30-40 minutes and cook to anywhere from 97F to 127F depending on the hardness of the cheese that you want.
Nathan

Alpkäserei

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2014, 02:11:34 PM »
Cheese in the Swiss style can be pretty broad, so let's narrow down your goal

Do you want Emmentaler (the cheese with eyes)?

DO you want something more like Gruyere?

Or are you after something along the lines of an Appenzeller?

A good cheese to make to learn the style is Mutschli, it is easy to make and very hard to mess up, and you can eat it quickly. But it has all the basic steps of an alpine style cheese. This is much like Appenzeller, made the same. The difference is only in how Appenzeller is washed.

As for culture, American producers tend to believe Swiss style cheeses should use Lactobacillus Helveticus. Actually in Switzerland they use Lactobacillus Bulgaricus. With the exception of Emmentaler, most cheeses strive to prevent growth of PS (eye former) which is naturally prevalent in the environment there.

You can use yogurt to culture Swiss style cheese. It will work surprisingly well. Something like 1 tsp yogurt per DL of milk should work well.

The basic steps of Swiss cheesemaking are:
Heat the milk to 32 C and add culture and rennet (if using powdered culture, put it in before you heat the milk, and heat it very slowly)
Coagulation time is 30 to 50 minutes. shorter for a cheese you want to age long, longer for a cheese that is softer and aged less (an Alpkäse has a 30 m coag, an Appenzeller more like 45 or 50 m for example)

Then is the 'Vorkäsen' or preliminary cheese making stage, this is where you make the curd.
First, test the gel with your finger to see if it is hard. It's impossible with words to tell you what is right, this is something that is learned. But it should when you run your finger through it stay cut and not ooze back together.
Then turn the top of the curd over, use maybe a small saucer or plate to do this. Just skim off the top and flip it over.
Then with a knife cut the curd into big chunks about 3 cm square.
Take your saucer again and use it to stir the coarse curd, dip it in on the far side of the vat and draw it toward you, this pulls the bottom of the curd up. break it into chunks until it is fairly evenly sized, big huge chunks of curd.
Then with your hard or whisk or whatever you have stir the curd with a 8 pattern until the curd is all about the size of a coffee bean.
Now with a spoon or stick or something, continue to stir the curd, not cutting it. This gives the culture more time to act, and the curd more opportunity to draw moisture and fat out of the whey through calcium bonding.

All of these together, the 'Vorkäsen' should take a total of 20 to 30 minutes

Now we cook the curd, constantly stirring the curd we heat the temperature. So higher the temperature, the harder the cheese and more it can be aged. A lower temperature makes a moister cheese that ripens quickly, but cannot be kept as long (like Appenzeller)

The range here is 40 to 56 degrees normally
We break that into 3 categories:
40-45 is a 'Halbhartkäse' or semi-hard cheese, can be aged up to 1 year, as short as 2 weeks. This would be things like Mutschli, Appenzeller, Raclette
45-50 is a 'Hartkäse' or hard cheese, but on the bottom of that scale. These can be aged 2 months to maybe 18 months. Not many cheeses made in this range, a few types from Central Switzerland.
50 and up is a Hartkäse in its truest sense, this is things like Berner Alpkäse, Sbrinz, Gruyere, and Emmentaler. These ripen very slowly, but are high quality cheeses. In general they should be aged a minimum of 6 months and up to 3 years (Berner Alpkäse can last 10 years) THe longer the age, the harder.

A heating temperature of 50 and up should be reached slowly after 30 to 45 minutes of cooking, stirring constantly.
A temperature of 40 to 45 should be reached after 20 to 30 minutes.

Mutschli is cooked normally 40 to 43 degrees.

A cheese aged past a year or 14 months is often classified a Hobelkäse, or grating cheese as these get very hard and are sometimes difficult to cut. Think like Parmesan.

I have adopted the practice of allowing my cheese to air dry for 1 day before placing in the brine.
A Alpkäse I will leave in brine for 20 to 24 hours
A Mutschli stays in for 30 to 48 hours, depending on its size.
The first will have very little salt. The second will be salty, but not like a Parmesan.
If you want eyes (PS growth) you will have to brine it only enough to harden the rind. Salt will inhibit PS growth.

Then there is also the Raclette. It is made either by removing about 1/3 of the whey. That is replaced either with water 60 degrees to bring the temperature up to around 40 (Berner Raclette), or with water 32 degrees and then the whole heated up to 40 as earlier (Walliser Raclette) This will be a very sweet cheese.

Offline Bear and Bunny cheese

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2014, 03:22:22 PM »
Golden knowledge as always.
Nathan

Offline Boofer

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2014, 04:44:01 PM »
along with Propionibacterium freudenreichii for eye formation.
Just to clarify:

Propionibacterium freudenreichii subsp. shermanii commonly referenced as "PS".

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Offline Bear and Bunny cheese

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2014, 06:14:34 PM »
Thanks Boofer, that saves a mouthful.
Nathan

svetlen

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2014, 08:01:09 PM »
 Alpkäserei
Thanks for the developed answer! I want cheese with big holes, I try to do new recipes. Available only "Thermo B" and PS, we have  very hot weather therefore till fall I won't buy new cultures. I will do from this that is, and it is necessary to consider received information and to be defined in temperature modes.
First experience of Jarlsberg unsuccessful sour taste, texture of the elastic. I wanted sweetish taste and big holes. I used a little PS, final serumal рН 5.5 .

Alpkäserei

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2014, 03:07:03 AM »
OK I have a thread on here for emmentaler, with the big holes. Look it up.

Basic run down, though:

35 to 45 min coagulation time
30 minute 'Vorkäsen'
Then there is an extra step in Switzerland that Americans seem to forget -take out up to 20 % of the whey and replace it with water of the same temperature. This is how you get it to be sweet.
Cook to 55 to 56 degrees in 40 minutes
Press for 1 day
Air dry 1 day
Brine for a very short time, this will depend on the size of your cheese (there is no such thing as saying, so many hours per pound of cheese. It is a lot more involved than that) If you brine too long, the PS will fail

Then wash it for about 10 days in a cool room,
Put in a warm room for 5 to 8 WEEKS to develop the PS and form eyes (most people don't leave it in this stage long enough, and when the eyes would just start forming they take it out, and thus doom the cheese)

Offline Bear and Bunny cheese

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2014, 10:13:41 PM »
Is the water replacement step a technique only for Emmentaler or do other Alpines use this step?

Another point about the warm room: Is it necessary to flip the cheese during the swelling?  I have found I have lost some swell when I flip them.  Would this make for eyes that are not round?  Thanks in advance.
Nathan

Alpkäserei

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2014, 02:27:05 AM »
You flip the cheese to keep swelling even. Look for French Emmentaler, they don't flip it and the wheels are... strange.

So we flip them to keep the swelling even on both sides.

The bigger you can make an Emmentaler, the better. I will be making Emmentaler in wheels of about 75 pounds, and I worry those will not be big enough! With a bigger cheese, you get nice big eyes.


Offline Boofer

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2014, 01:25:50 PM »
Is the water replacement step a technique only for Emmentaler or do other Alpines use this step?
I have used this in some of my Beauforts: "Replaced removed whey with 122F water to sweeten the curds. Again, this changes this cheese as a true Beaufort, but I like the results better." from Beaufort #6.

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Offline Bear and Bunny cheese

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #12 on: May 28, 2014, 01:54:18 PM »
When would be the best time for this whey-water exchange?  Would you use this water addition to raise the temperature of the curds during cooking or add it when the curds are at the same temperature as the water?  The first 10 minutes of cooking are crucial to raise the heat slowly so I am thinking it should be done later in the cook.
Nathan

Alpkäserei

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #13 on: May 28, 2014, 02:06:35 PM »
In emmentaler, you DO NOT use the water to raise the temperature. This cheese needs to be properly cooked.

You add water 32 degrees C, the same temperature as the milk is when the rennet is added.

The water is added immediately after the 'Vorkäsen' and before cooking.

When we do Raclette, we use water to heat the cheese, here is my recipe:

Normal Vorkäsen ca.20 -30Min.
Dann Käsemilch abschöpfen, ungefähr 35%  Molke abschöpfen und heisses Wasser( ca.60° C) beifügen .
Unter stetem umrühren langsam Wasser ins Kessi schütten.(innerhalb  ca.10 Minuten)
Der Käse wird dann mit dem Heissen Wasser eigentlich gebrüht!
Wenn die Temperatur nicht 40° C erreicht hat muss ev. mit Feuer noch nachgebrüht werden.
Danach ca.5-10min ausrühren.

That is,
Vorkäsen 20-30 min like above,
take whey out -about 35% and add hot water (ca.60° C).
Constantly stir while adding the water slowly into the vat, inside of about 10 minutes.
If the temperature does not reach 40 C then you will have to heat it up the rest of the way over the fire.
After this, stir for 5 to 10 minutes.

SO that should show you the difference between the two. Emmental is a water-added cooked alpine cheese. Raclette is a water-cooked alpine cheese, except the exception of Walliser Raclette which, like Emmentaler, has 32 degree water added and is then cooked over a fire.

Offline Bear and Bunny cheese

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Re: Council is necessary
« Reply #14 on: May 28, 2014, 06:48:44 PM »
That clears things up perfectly.  Thanks as always Alp.  Might try a Raclette one of these days.
Nathan