Author Topic: Ripening confusion...  (Read 1670 times)

EvilTessmacher

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Ripening confusion...
« on: September 28, 2017, 12:50:39 AM »
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my very first cheese attempt, but I have a question I am not experienced or educated enough to find an answer for.

I have seen several very similar recipes to the one I have (It is a "Bel Paese" type) {I underline and emphasize type, because the handwritten title on the recipe from my Great Grandmother is "Τυρί της χώρας" ("Country Cheese" in Greek)}

It is made in a very similar manner, but for one detail: The ripening period before the addition of the rennet.

I have, as a means of attempting to educate myself, looked up several recipes of similar nature, and all of them either have no ripening period, or a 60 minute ripening period. In addition, there are about 5 different variations in the cultures used. Some of them (like the Bel Paese recipe Here) have 4 different cultures, while others use blends. I did some searching, and found a Direct Set Thermophilic ST culture blend that should work. (Side note: Dang, but there are a whole lot of cultures available out there!)

My question is this: Exactly what is the result in the final flavor of the cheese depending on whether it is ripened for a period of time or not ripened?

I remember my Great Grandmother making this cheese when I was about 6 or 7, and even though I do not remember exactly what she did during the process, I do recall that it had a fairly smooth, creamy, and almost sweet flavor. Almost similar to solid cream, if that makes any sense. It wasn't sharp like a cheddar, didn't have a "twang" like buttermilk, and wasn't earthy like Swiss, or buttery like Havarti. It smelled like cream and butter.

So, what happens to the flavor of the cheese when it is ripened for a period of time before the rennet, and what happens to the flavor when it is not ripened at all?

I really would like to understand the process better before I take the plunge...

Thanks!

Offline Gregore

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2017, 04:09:57 AM »
First off , we would sure love to see that recipe from your grandmother.  And I will swap you a digital cheese for it

The only reason for the initial ripen after adding culture is for them to wake up start multiplying and lowering the ph of the milk.  This gives a better rennet set .

And as for flavor , I would assume that your grandmother used raw milk for her cheeses so you will find it hard to come to the same flavor profile as she did .


You do not mention if hers was the non wait or wait version .



Offline awakephd

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2017, 02:41:18 PM »
Like Gregore, I would love to see the recipe! I don't suppose there is any chance that this recipe has been handed down through many centuries?? My modern Greek is sketchy at best, but my ancient Greek is pretty good. :)

Given the description of a creamy, buttery, non-tangy flavor, I would guess that the cheese was not allowed to acidify too far ... but some of that flavor is simply the result of a fresh, rather than aged, cheese.
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EvilTessmacher

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2017, 03:19:26 PM »
First off , we would sure love to see that recipe from your grandmother.  And I will swap you a digital cheese for it

Well, I'd love to show it, except I'd have to translate it, and my Greek isn't as good as Nanna's was...  ;) And I don't know what it means to "swap a digital cheese"... Sorry.

Quote
The only reason for the initial ripen after adding culture is for them to wake up start multiplying and lowering the ph of the milk.  This gives a better rennet set.

There must be more to it than you're telling. Otherwise, why would all those different cheeses have different ripening times? Why would it even be called "ripening" and not "acidifying" or "deacidifying" if there weren't something more to it? There's a reason for it, and I don't know enough to know what that reason is. Which is why I asked. 

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And as for flavor , I would assume that your grandmother used raw milk for her cheeses so you will find it hard to come to the same flavor profile as she did.

Great Grandmother.

Why would you assume that I am not using raw milk? 

I happen to have a source for it, and it is indeed my intention to use it in this process. It is, I am told, a little richer than store-bought whole milk, around 4.5%. I even posted in another thread asking about how to save and reuse the whey for a pressed and aged whey-ricotta-type cheese I've read about. For various technical reasons, I won't be saving the whey from my first few attempts making Nanna's cheese. It is partially due to the expense that I wish to understand the process as well and as much as possible, so that I'm not doing things I don't understand, and don't thereby arrive at results by accident. Isn't the point of following a recipe to ensure repeatability, consistency, and predictability?

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You do not mention if hers was the non wait or wait version.

You're right. I didn't.   8)

Mostly I didn't mention it, because it isn't relevant to my inquiry. I asked what the effects were of ripening times versus no ripening times on final flavor profiles.  I'm trying to understand the variables as they apply to cheesemaking in general, so that particular information can be applied to specifics about a given type of cheese. Why does one action end up with the results that it does, as opposed to another action in the exact same recipe ending up with differing results?

It isn't important to anyone who already knows these things, but to those of us who do not know what everyone else knows, these things are how we get to a better understanding of how to use recipes to get particular and specific results. I wish people who are expert would remember that there are those of us out here who do not know what they know, and respond accordingly. We can't, by definition, understand these details unless they're explained to us in a manner that allows for our lack of specific knowledge.  :o I'm sure you understand. I wouldn't any more begin discussing architecture with my students by talking about Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and Brunelleschi's impossible dome, without first covering the Minoans, Mycenaeans, the Greeks, and the Romans. One can't understand Cologne's Gothic magnificence, without understanding the foundations laid in the early Renaissance.

For example, I read a thread (elsewhere) about someone who had made Bleu Cheese, but ended up with two different results. One of them was a very soft, almost runny cheese (not unlike a Brie) and the other was more crumbly and dry, like a Feta. It took me several read-throughs of the thread to discern the very minor difference in the maturation process which caused the specific difference in the end results. It turned out that the maturation container wasn't big enough for both cheeses (made identically at the same time up to this point) so one of them was put in another identically-sized container, but upon a much taller mat/platform. The taller platform allowed for greater air circulation, and ensured that the cheese wasn't down in the bottom of the container, because of the flatter mat, and thus sitting in the outgasses from the maturation process. Hence, the two different results from the exact same cheese. This is the type of thing that interests me, as I will be able to pick and choose the alterations in process that will result in the type of cheese I wish to produce. I wish to understand these details ahead of time, so that there are no surprises, failures, or waste involved. It's an academic outlook on the process of artisanship. Once I am confident of my ability to produce a cheese that not only meets my expectations, but also is what I intend to produce (and not by accident, but by design) then I'll be more than happy to share my Great-Grandmother's recipe (and my variations) with anyone who wants it.

So, again, I ask, Why does one action, such as a lengthy ripening time, end up with the results that it does, as opposed to another action such as no ripening time, in the exact same recipe ending up with different results?  How does that cause the final flavor of the finished cheese to be one thing or another, sharp or creamy? Earthy, or buttery? In this case, the only variable is length of ripening.

Offline awakephd

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2017, 07:23:17 PM »
Hmm ... we are trying to help as best we can, but you are quite right - this is not a classroom, and we are not actually engaged in teaching the art of cheesemaking. Very few here on the forum would claim to be experts; rather we are avid amateurs, sharing our experiences. That sharing will almost certainly not be systematically presented, in part because we generally have no idea how much or how little experience and knowledge any given poster has. So we answer the questions, and if that leads to more questions, we answer those - leading to nuggets of information that must be assembled, or in the vernacular of the classroom, some things are left to the student.

For a systematic presentation, you would benefit from an introductory book that takes you through various aspects of the cheesemaking process. The best I have encountered is Gianaclis Caldwell's Mastering Artisan Cheesemaking.

Meanwhile, to further address your specific question about ripening times: As Gregore has said, the length of ripening time affects how much the bacteria has multiplied and therefore what the pH is. Why does this matter? Because one of, if not the, most significant factors in producing a given type of cheese is managing the pH curve throughout the process. The pH when you add rennet will make a difference in how quickly it sets. The pH when you drain the curd will make a difference in how much calcium is retained, which in turn affects the structure / texture of the final cheese. The pH when you salt the curd will make a difference in both taste and texture.

Unfortunately, here is the bad news: "following a recipe" does not "ensure repeatability, consistency, and predictability" in the pH curve. Milk is dynamic, and every batch is different; some milk has much greater buffering capacity than other milk. (For that matter, the same batch of milk on day one is different than it is on day three.) Meanwhile, different varieties of the exact same species of cultures behave differently, and even two different batches of the exact same varieties behave differently. The temperature of the room can make a difference. Whether the culture is added as freeze-dried granules or as a mother culture makes a huge difference. As best I can tell, the phase of the moon does not make a difference ... but I wouldn't rule it out. :)

Therefore, time is generally a very poor measurement when it comes to making cheese. The key is not the length of time; it is the development of the pH as a result of the action of the multiplying bacteria. Time is something you have to manage in response to the dynamic conditions of a given batch of cheese, in order to achieve the right curd consistency and moisture at the right pH. Thus, a cheese that is allowed to ripen for 60 minutes may come out indistinguishable from another that is not allowed to ripen at all ... and two different batches of the very same cheese, allowed to ripen the very same length of time, may come out quite different from one another.
-- Andy

EvilTessmacher

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2017, 08:53:14 PM »
Hmm ... we are trying to help as best we can, but you are quite right - this is not a classroom, and we are not actually engaged in teaching the art of cheesemaking. Very few here on the forum would claim to be experts; rather we are avid amateurs, sharing our experiences.

I appreciate your statement, and respectfully disagree. Any time any information is retained and spread, especially by "avid amateurs" engaging in a labour of love, it most certainly is education.

Quote
Unfortunately, here is the bad news: "following a recipe" does not "ensure repeatability, consistency, and predictability" in the pH curve....

Therefore, time is generally a very poor measurement when it comes to making cheese. The key is not the length of time; it is the development of the pH as a result of the action of the multiplying bacteria...

Thus, a cheese that is allowed to ripen for 60 minutes may come out indistinguishable from another that is not allowed to ripen at all ... and two different batches of the very same cheese, allowed to ripen the very same length of time, may come out quite different from one another...

Most definitely not what I expected to hear. It also contradicts the empirical experience of following a written guideline. In cooking, following a recipe most certainly does ensure repeatability, consistency, and predictability. Else, why have it? Just go willy-nilly throwing in anything you like at any given time. I do not accept the premise that recipes are invalid.

Clearly, I have asked this question in the wrong place. Thank you all for your time, and efforts.

Offline awakephd

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2017, 09:05:59 PM »
Umm ... no, I don't recall saying that recipes are invalid, nor that one can throw anything you like in at any time. I do recall saying that time is not a reliable measurement in cheese making. That does not mean that time is completely irrelevant; it does mean that a stated length of time cannot be relied on to give the same results from batch to batch. Perhaps in cooking, one can rely absolutely on the time(s) given, though I know some professional bakers who would strongly disagree. But in cheese making, you have to work with the microbiology going on ... and the little critters that make cheese do not punch time clocks.

Sorry that this doesn't match your expectations. However, once again, all we can give you is the benefit of our personal experience. I have provided my experience; you are certainly welcome to seek out others' - or better yet, to develop your own experience. If, down the road, you would find it beneficial to compare notes, come on back to the forum ...
-- Andy

Offline Gregore

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2017, 05:25:30 AM »



Baking is only chemistry  with a small part played by heating and cooking is mostly just heating with a little chemistry


And yes contrary to all other cooking recipes  with cheese making it changes from one batch of milk to the next because it is chemistry mixed with culturing . And even minor changes at the beginning can lead to huge differences in the type of cheese or not .

You can absolutely follow the recipe precisely as the author wrote it and not end up with the same cheese .

Only 2 things will get you "close"  to the same cheese time after time  a ph meter and a lot of experience .









reg

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2017, 01:26:02 PM »
Going back to the original question I'm not sure if the term 'ripened' should even be used at this stage in the process. Ripened is in my opinion something that is becoming mature not the beginning of the process.

Offline Gregore

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #9 on: September 30, 2017, 04:37:18 AM »
I can't even imagine a recipe that uses dry dvi cultures and has no wait time for them to get their groove on .

And one of the questions asked was what is the effect on the final cheese flavor with or without the wait time.

I would say no difference if one was still able to hit all of the ph targets for that style of cheese .  Very unlikely  for some one with out a lot of experience or without a ph meter .  And if one was not able to hit all of the ph markers ...... then it is anyone's guess from the best cheese ever to the worst cheese ever , way too many variables .

But the no wait would certainly throw everything off quite a bit , plus having the added disadvantage of not getting the most amount of curd from the milk.




reg

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #10 on: September 30, 2017, 03:18:58 PM »
I agree 100% Gregore but we do have to remember this fellow is totally green and does admit no education or experience in the making of cheese and I do find his replies quite .... I for one would not head to an internet forum for answers and information about cheese making without first doing the research to see how difficult this hobby really is.

ET there are some good books out there with some great info but one I would highly recommend is ' The Science of Cheese ' by Michael H. Tunick. This is not a recipe driven book but a book that explains the chemistry and biology of the cheese making process and I'm sure it can answer all your questions

Good luck in the future




Offline awakephd

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2017, 03:47:35 PM »
I hope my reply did not come across as too impatient, but I have to agree with you, Reg - there is something a bit off-putting about someone who admits to having no experience, who then contests the answers given by those who do have experience. :( Fortunately, this sort of thing is the rare exception on this forum!
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Offline FooKayaks2

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2017, 08:18:53 PM »
Hi Andy,

I believe your answers were quiet patient and well explained. hopefully once the orginal poster has read some more he will realise that everyone was just trying to help.

It's very much like the old why won't my mozzarella work when I am following a time based recipe.

Original poster if you are still about my advice is
Buy a pH meter
Have someone whose Greek is good enough translate your great grandmothers recipe.
Experiment with ripening times and measure the pH throughout the process, ripening, afte currting, during stirring, when you mould, during pressing and when you salt. By manipulating the pH at which you do all those things you will eventually have as close a cheese to great grandmothers as you can get.

If you would like us to help streamline this process I am sure we all can help. But it is very hard without her guideline recipe. I am sure when she was making the cheese GGM was feeling the curds and tasting them to judge when they were ready. She may have even been tasting the milk to see if it was sour enough.

Good luck
Mathew

Offline Gregore

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2017, 01:30:09 AM »
More than likely the great grandmothers mother handed  down the recipe to her and showed her all the key elements to look for along the process , it is a shame that that chain was broken .

I think that if this poster  he or she was to have it translated , have us put ph makers into it and then if they were to make it once a week for a month or 2 . I bet that it could be as good as the great grandmothers .

Offline OzzieCheese

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Re: Ripening confusion...
« Reply #14 on: October 01, 2017, 03:46:18 AM »
Andy and Gregore,

there was something definitely missed in translation  - I thought you were very succinct
100 gms of Flour and one egg make enough pasta for one.  This is a recipe

1. mix.
2. kneed until silky.
3. rest in fridge for 30 minutes
4. cut into thin strips
5. boil in salted water until just soft.

There is absolutely no way that will make pasta the same way every time.  There are too many variables.  "Empirical evidence" is...
Empirical evidence, also known as sensory experience, is the knowledge received by means of the senses, particularly by observation and experimentation.
The term comes from the Greek word for experience, ἐμπειρία 

Repeat this as many times as necessary and gather the required 'Evidence', experience, sensory observations - ask people who make pasta - go find a pasta maker and watch - eat some pasta - feel what is tastes like - that is Empirical Evidence.   

Pity that there seems to be an Historical cheese that will be forever lost.. its a shame.  Hope the poster comes back and we can help with trying to explain cheese making in the hope to rescue a piece of history and save a fading tradition...

-- Mal
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