Author Topic: Humidity Addition - Methods  (Read 2413 times)

Bowling Bill

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Humidity Addition - Methods
« on: August 20, 2009, 09:59:48 PM »
I have tried adding some open containers of water in the bottom of the fridge but I can't seem to get the right humidity.  At 45 degrees I imagine that it will be even more difficult to manage the humidity.

Anyone have any wisdom?

Thanks,
Bill

FRANCOIS

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2009, 10:18:21 PM »
At 45 it will be very difficult.  Why can't you raise the temp more?   %RH is misleading, you really want to be looking at total airbornemositure (lbs/grain).  I have used atomozing nozzles, like for a greenhouse or supermarket produce system, hooked up to a solenoid valve that was on a timer.  It worked great.

In our plant now we use ultrasonic which gives a superior mist that stays air borne easily.  I have also seen steam systems, but woudn't recommend them.

For a fridge the easiest option is to suspend a rag with the bottom in the bowl to wick moisture.  Make sure the rag is over the fan (if it has one) so that it picks up moisture when it blows the cold air.

zenith1

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2009, 11:37:27 PM »
I agree with Francois- I have a shallow pan in my small dedicated cave(refrigerator) that a made a frame out of metal window screen,and then draped a piece of cheesecloth over this with the ends in the water. I get ~75-80% humidity this way. Oh, and buy yourself an inexpensive humidity gauge.

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2009, 02:16:19 AM »
45 degrees is to low. The cheese will take forever to ripen. For humidity I drape a piece of cheese cloth over the back shelf of the fridge with the end in a bowl of water. Mine has three small fans in it so it gets to blow moisture on all three shelves that way.

Bowling Bill

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2009, 05:18:50 PM »
Thanks for the responses.  I have considered the wicking rag solution. 

In response to the 45deg is too low comments.  According to Rikki Carrol, Home Cheese Making, unwaxed swiss should be aged at 45deg and 80% RH  and the camembert at 45deg and 95% RH.

Are these stats wrong?

In on of my numerous re-reads of Home Cheese Making, I noticed the comment about small batch swiss (2# or less) you can wax.  I did wax the swiss after the eye formation process so I don't have to worry about the humidity during the 1-3 month aging process.

Any comments on this adjustment?

Thanks and keep the feedback coming,
Bill

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2009, 01:01:27 AM »
Once it is waxed humidity is not really a issue.

Offline ArnaudForestier

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2011, 02:58:56 PM »
I have used atomozing nozzles, like for a greenhouse or supermarket produce system, hooked up to a solenoid valve that was on a timer.  It worked great.

Another old post brought back to life - apologies if this specific thing has been covered; I'm getting close to setting up my reefer cave (not ideal, but a free reefer-freezer, very new, so couldn't pass it up) and wondered, too, about this idea of cycling on and off, but using a small US humidifier as opposed to an atomizing nozzle - the solenoid I no longer have (used to use one to dose in CO2 for a pretty-high end planted aquarium environment), so I was thinking of a small US humidifier and a simple timer set to X minutes on, Y minutes off, checking average humidity level over time before putting my first cheeses into the cave. 

Not an electrician, and not naturally, mechanically (only a scientific brewer by need, not natural inclination, beyond a fairly intense, native curiosity) inclined - so, any reason this would lead to humidifier burnout?
- Paul

FRANCOIS

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2011, 06:58:42 PM »
Give it a shot but my first thought would be the time it takes for an US to get going and pump out mist.  You'll also need to find a spot in the reefer that has a pretty constant huidity level to place the sensor, avoid swings from the dry air off the cooling coil if you can.

Once your cave is fully loaded I doubt it will need much water.  In my experience they tend to be pretty self sufficient once loaded and you can get by with a bucket of water on the floor once a day.  it seems to be irrespective of construction too.

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Re: Humidity Addition - Methods
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2011, 07:15:35 PM »
Give it a shot but my first thought would be the time it takes for an US to get going and pump out mist.  You'll also need to find a spot in the reefer that has a pretty constant huidity level to place the sensor, avoid swings from the dry air off the cooling coil if you can.

Once your cave is fully loaded I doubt it will need much water.  In my experience they tend to be pretty self sufficient once loaded and you can get by with a bucket of water on the floor once a day.  it seems to be irrespective of construction too.

Thanks, Francois, great info, will give it a go.  I'm also hoping a cheap analog hygrometer will get me in the ballpark, for now.  So far, with reefer on lowest setting, doesn't seem to be getting too low, but time will tell whether I can maintain a constant 55 with just the integral thermo, as I would love to forego the external thermostat, as well. (Cheapie in me, former chef-restaurateur). 
- Paul