Author Topic: Crottin des Chavignol type cheeses  (Read 67 times)

Online psearle

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Crottin des Chavignol type cheeses
« on: July 27, 2014, 12:01:31 PM »
Here is a picture of my attempt to reproduce Crottin des Chavignol with the milk from my goats.  The picture shows a cheese from each of three batches aged 3, 24 and 46 days old.  Note that I used different form factors for each batch so sizes are not comparable.

For each batch I used the recipe in "The Fabrication of Farmstead Goat Cheese" on 17 litres of pasteurised milk with 1/4 tsp of MA16 and 1/16 tsp of GEO 17 to assist ripening. 1/4 tsp of calcium chloride was added to each batch to compensate for pasteurising and I used 1.5 ml of rennet.  This makes about a dozen cheeses sized 5cm diameter by 6cm tall.

These taste lovely at 21 days but really come into their own at 6 weeks.  I'll certainly be making more! 

I've posted a question elsewhere asking for advice on using frozen curd for these but have not received any replies.  I froze 1kg of pre-drained curd from the last batch and will be trying to use this after a few weeks to see if I can crack the process for myself.  If I can then this will be a great way to even out my milk supply over the year.



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Offline botanist

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Re: Crottin des Chavignol type cheeses
« Reply #1 on: Yesterday at 04:18:39 PM »
Hi there,

I hope this answers your question  (it seems that you can use frozen milk if you don't want to restrict your label to 'fermier')  ;)
http://www.sheridanscheesemongers.com/cheese/crottin-de-chavignol-fermier-aoc/

This fermier (farmhouse) goat’s cheese is made from raw milk in the Loire, not far from the celebrated wine-village of Sancerre. Dubois-Boulay are one of the three or four family owned affineurs dealing exclusively in Crottin de Chavignol. The production area for the cheese stretches from Sancerre to Berrichonne in Champagne, although the AOC states that all affinage must take place within a strictly delimited AOC area. For this reason there is a preponderance of producers but few affineurs. Dubois-Boulay alone deal with over 200 different cheesemakers. Although the AOC permits the use of frozen curds, a measure designed to ensure year round availability of goat’s cheese, the use of frozen curds is forbidden in cheeses labelled fermier.

Crottin de Chavignol AOC provides a textbook example of the manner in which a cheese can change with age. Furthermore, because the crottin is so small the changes take place over a far shorter length of time than they would for a large cheese such as Comté.
Dubois-Boulay describe four different stages of development in the cheese.

Demi-Sec: aged about 12 days. At this stage the cheese is just barely mature. Lactic flavours predominate and the crottin has yet to develop a real of complexity of flavour.

Bleuté: Aged about three weeks. A white penicillum rind is developing. With age an increasing amount of blue mould appears on the rind. The rind is developing a slightly mushroomy aroma. Inside the milky taste found in demi-sec crottins is replaced by  more robust, complex flavours.

Bleu: Aged 1-2 months. The rind is even more fully developed, and blue predominates. A deep goaty flavour is apparent. The cheese still maintains a sweetness but, due to the more developed rind, the crottin has a sharp aftertaste.

Très Sec: Aged two months plus. Appreciated by real fans of Crottin Chavignol. The paste is very brittle and dry, a flavour of hazelnuts has developed.

Dubois-Boulay advise that it is possible to keep the young cheese, wrapped in cheese paper, in the vegetable drawer of the fridge and age it over a few weeks or months.
The obvious, and classic pairing for this cheese is a Sancerre, white for the younger cheeses and red with the more mature.

www.dubois-boulay.fr

I made crottin from Mary Karlin's book with Oberhasli milk and only used P. candidum and Geo, as per her recipe, and loved it!  I'll have to try the blue version sometime too.

The solution I've found for too much milk is to make lots of aged cheeses, not limiting myself to those normally made from cow's milk only.  I've incorporated the general changes recommended for recipes calling for cow's milk, changed to goat's milk, as recommended by Margaret Peters-Morris:  decrease rennet by 20-25%, use temps at start and finish 2-3 degrees lower, cut curd slightly larger, handle curd very gently.

Cheers!
Kitren
before goats, store bought milk = chevre & feta, with goats, infinite possibilities, goatie love, lotta work cleaning out the barn!

Online psearle

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Re: Crottin des Chavignol type cheeses
« Reply #2 on: Today at 01:19:43 AM »
Hi Kitren

Thanks for all the information and especially for the links.

I make my cheeses in part with frozen milk because I only have a couple of milkers who give me 4-5 litres a day between them (in the summer) and my cheese vat is an electric bain marie with an absolute maximum capacity of 19 litres.  The frozen milk is never more than a couple of weeks old and a batch of cheese uses typically 13 litres of frozen milk (thawed gently overnight) and 4 or 5 litres from that morning and the previous evening.  This system works well for me.  Making a really aged cheese (say a 12 months matured cheddar) is difficult because the size of such a cheese is more than I can handle in my vat and, although I have excellent temperature control in my cheese "cave", humidity control is very hit and miss.

I also freeze cheese.  A matured tomme gets vacuum wrapped then put into the freezer for anything up to 6 months.  Finally, we also make some Pen Cand cheese based on a camembert recipe and freeze this when it has a good covering of mould but before it starts to soften.  If this is thawed gently then the ripening process will restart (after a couple of weeks delay) and the cheese develops normally.

What I was really after with freezing curds was to stop the process at a much earlier stage, in fact just after pre-draining the curds 24-36 hours into the "make".  The idea then would be to thaw the curds in a few months, pack them into moulds in the normal way and develop the cheeses from there.  I have read (but can't find the source again) that this is done commercially in France and was looking to see if anyone else had tried this and whether there was anything to do to optimise the process.  I saved 1kg of pre-drained curds from my last batch and will be experimenting with this.  I'll post results (good or bad) when I get them!

I'm guessing that you keep Oberhaslis?  They are really beautiful looking animals!  I've only seen one in the flesh when I was visiting my eldest son in Canada and helped one of his friends to show some of her goats (La Manchas and Saanens) at a local country show.  My goats are Golden Guernseys and I have them in my back yard so my "herd" consists of two adult does and whatever kids have been bred prior to selling them.  At the moment we have a couple of 3 month old kids (girl and castrated boy) and a 15 month doeling.

All the best

Peter