regardless, would you recommend FD for an epoisse? Any others, particularly? Is the 4% fraction a necessary threshold for a pure lactic curd, whatever culture is used?
FD is a decent choice, yes. You need Leuconostoc, likely even more than FD has. IIRC FD is something like 10-15% Leuconostoc in the blend.
No, the 4% threshold is something that helps to make for a really great lactic curd when your bacterial mix has suboptimal polysaccharide structures on the outside of its cell walls. All that proteins sets up thick even without the bacterial help with the texture.
This, too, a more or less limiting factor for a successful epoisse?
Yes, you need to have huge oxygen availability and saturated air (98%) to get it right. Very tough to do in a fridge.
particular length or drying protocol
straight lactic curd, so you need to drain and drain and drain. Pack curd into molds, leave for 4 days, RH 70-75%, flipping every 12 hours after initially flipping every 2-3 hours to make sure there's good drainage. After 4 days the curd should set up, remove, salt, and move to racks. Racks should be in classic 70% RH, 50-52F. Takes a day or two to dry.
I understand epoisse is particularly prone to "slip skin" effect
Point a fan toward the wheels if they're not drying enough.
Try selling "poussin crapaudine" to dining clients
True story. One time I had early slip skin on a cheese, so I took it off, pureed it, made it into a wild mushroom sauce and served it. "Poussine aux champignons rustiques. "
was good, actually.