Author Topic: My #1 Taleggio  (Read 17244 times)

Offline Boofer

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My #1 Taleggio
« on: February 27, 2011, 03:00:31 AM »
Okay, so I'm trying to get close to the real style of the cheeses I make. That includes using the true-to-style mold for a particular cheese. In the case of Taleggio, I am led to understand the cheese should be square.

I didn't have square Taleggio molds, but I did happen to have a stainless steel brick mold. I very recently used it for Esrom, in keeping with that style, and thought maybe I could put it to work making Taleggio. The pictures tell the tale, but not all of it. Boy, was it a hassle wrestling this very soft "brick", trying to flip it and retain the brick shape. For one thing, the brick mold was too tall for this technique. It would have worked so much better with a lower, more conventional Taleggio mold. Those are on my wish list for the future. I will not be making Taleggio in my brick mold any more. What a pain!

I cursed a bit and got a little frustrated with how the flipping went, but I did manage to come up with two workable cheeses. I've kept the cheese out in the garage since it came out of the mold. The temperature out there has been a comfy 45-50F. A recently purchased cave #2 will be its new home going forward.

I misted these cheeses today with SR3 in a light brine. I'm now starting to see a little surface growth.

I wanted to include this description to help characterize the style. If the Wiki input were available, it should more properly be included in there:
"Taleggio is a soft pressed, washed rind cow milk cheese form the Lombardy region of northern Italy. It is made from both lightly pasteurized and raw milk, unfortunately the U.S. FDA will not allow the raw milk version to be imported into to the country because it is aged for only 40 days. Taleggio has been given DOP certification which insures the quality of the cheese and the methods of its production. Luckily the Taleggio that is imported to the US is DOP certified and usually comes from the semi- Alpine Valtellina area in the northern part of Lombardy. Here the cheese is produced in small batches by several commercial cheese companies. Thankfully this cheese is getting easier to find in the US.

Tallegio can vary in flavor and consistency of its inner paste. When it is young (about 40-50 days) it will be fruity and mildly salty with a firm white interior, but as it matures it will become softer ( almost oozy) and will have a beefy buttery flavor with hints of nuts and just a hint of salt. Taleggio has a minimum fat content of 48%. The consistency of a ripe or mature Taleggio is almost like that of a ripe Brie where it bulges but does not get runny. This is a brine washed rind cheese so it will have a bit of a stink. The rind itself is a bit unsightly and will have a pink or slight brick color. It may also have areas of mold on it but this might be hard to see since it comes wrapped in a layer of paper. Do not worry about any mold on the outer rind because it does not affect the integrity or quality of the inner paste. If the outer layer of paper is stuck to the rind and is very hard to peel off this is a sign that the cheese is ripe and in perfect condition to eat and enjoy. If the paper pulls off easily and the cheese feels very firm to the touch you will have found a young version. Once again like Brie, this cheese is alive and will continue to age until it is cut, once it is cut the aging process stops. So if the cut Tallegio you found is young it will remain that way and the full flavor will not develop. The interior paste of a ripe Taleggio should have a slight yellow custard color. Taleggio's rind is considered by a few cheese purists to be edible however almost everyone will remove it. I personally find it to be inedible so I prefer to remove the rind entirely and just scoop out the wonderful inner pate.

You can serve Taleggio melted over rice or polenta and as a table cheese with fresh fruit, nuts and honey. It is also great with thinly sliced meats or fruit on a grilled sandwich like a panini or spread on a warm croissant for breakfast.
Wine paring: It pairs well with big Italian reds like Barolo, Chianti Riserva, Soave or Barbaresco

Lester Majkowicz writes for the popular Around The World Cheese website. You can learn about storing, purchasing, preparation and find reviews for fine gourmet cheese by reading the articles at http://www.aroundtheworldgourmetcheese.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lester_Majkowicz
"

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« Last Edit: February 27, 2011, 07:54:15 PM by Boofer »
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soleuy

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2011, 07:09:48 PM »
They look very well!!!
I have two questions, what is SR3 and if it's possible to you to give the recipe you used.
This was one of the cheeses I've tried doing, the result was no so good: I think I had some problems with the quantity of whey removed and with the ripening. It has got the reddish rind but there was too much proteolysis under it and the centre was a little acid. I ripened it in the cellar and I think the temperature was too high (16- 18 ºC): The temperature for ripening should be 2-6 ºC and 85-90 % HR
I have a recipe from an Italian book, where it’s recommended to wash the cheese once a week with light brine. I can write that recipe if you want.
 Thanks Soledad


Offline Boofer

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2011, 08:25:53 PM »
Thank you, they are still very early in their process.

The recipe is actually pulled from Brie's, Bella's, clherestian's, and Paul Dixon's Taleggio recipes. I wanted to form a consensus about the proper way to make this cheese. Then, of course, I add in my own personal technique.

SR3 is the red bacteria also known as b. linens (brevibacterium linens or coryneform bacteria). See the attached chart from glengarrycheesemaking.com.

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Offline Hande

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2011, 11:00:59 PM »
Thank you Boofer, there was lot of nice info at Taleggio.
Bottle of Barolo huge piece of Taleggio and some nice bread, let's party  :)
Yours Taleggio's has very nice shape.

Hande

soleuy

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2011, 06:27:14 PM »
This is what I have done and between brackets what the book says

Taleggio’s   Recipe.

Pasteurized milk
At 42 ºC add 1, 5 % yogurt and 2 % of Termophilic culture from milk. Wait 30 ´ (Termophilic culture from milk or commercially cultures of a mixture of S Thermophilus and L. d. ssp bulgaricus).
At 37 º C Add Calcium chloride 0, 3 / l and Rennet 1:10000/ 0, 4 ml/l
Coagulation in 20-30 ´
Cut in 2,5 cm blocks/ wait 15' / cut to 1,5 cm blocks mixing carefully 3- 4 '/ wait 10' / mix carefully  3- 4'/ 10 '
Mould
Leave the cheese in the mould at 22- 25º C for 8-16 hours (stufatura).
During this step   flip first at 30' and there times after an hour 
Dry salt or brine al 18% a 12°C)
Ripening at 2-6 º C and 80-90 % HR for 35 days, washing with light brine weekly

Soledad

Brie

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2011, 12:18:19 AM »
Sole--make certain to let this cheese out of it's box and cave a few times everyweek to develop the b.linens--for about a half hour each time. I have found this is a critical step. Good luck, and kepp us posted!

OudeKaas

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2011, 02:32:20 AM »
Hmmmm . . . so I notice you cut this in half to make 2 cheeses? Curious to hear how it matures.

I recently (as described elsewhere here) started some tomme-ish cheese in a taller 'hard cheese' cylindrical mold and cut in half to yield 2 shorter cheeses, lightly pressing again afterwards with them each separately wrapped in cheesecloth to try to help rind development. Despite this 'finishing' pressing, I have noticed that the cut sides behave very differently than the others. One I steeped in beer and the cut side absorbed much more liquid and became much darker. On the others, mold has grown OK on the other sides, but much less on the cut side.

Would be interested to hear if you have any similar experiences with this. . . .

CheeseSnipe

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2011, 04:32:45 AM »
Off topic, Boofer, where did you get your brick mold from? Or is it homemade?

Offline Boofer

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2011, 06:38:30 AM »
Off topic, Boofer, where did you get your brick mold from? Or is it homemade?
Ullmer's Dairy Equipment. I think it was about $25.

Hmmmm . . . so I notice you cut this in half to make 2 cheeses? Curious to hear how it matures.
I only let the curds set up and then made the cut so there really wasn't a long time before I cut. I'm hoping all sides progress at an even pace.

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soleuy

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2011, 01:08:55 PM »
Sole--make certain to let this cheese out of it's box and cave a few times everyweek to develop the b.linens--for about a half hour each time. I have found this is a critical step. Good luck, and kepp us posted!

Thanks for the advice. When I did my taleggio in the cellar , it developed the B linens OK ( only washing it with brine), but if I do one now I would ripen it in the fridge  ( because we are finishing summer here), and I won´t use SR3 because it´s not available for me, so I think  it´s a good idea to put the cheese outside ( perhaps the cellar ).

Soledad

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2011, 02:11:01 PM »
Well this is an interesting experiment. The dreaded slip skin has been here for a while now. I've tried to keep the humidity high enough to preclude that problem, but it happened anyway. I've been fighting blues and other invaders while trying to keep from pulling the cheese apart. The edges are very tender and I am still lifting and turning both of them. The square shape also presents a few problems. The edges no doubt dry faster than a round shape would.

It's a learning experience. After sampled a genuine Italian Taleggio very recently I really want to know how to develop the sticky, creamy paste (like very soft taffy). I'm thinking higher pH (6.4-6.5) into the mold for a sweeter paste and let the pH develop slightly over the course of the molding and affinage.

I would also like to know how to handle the cheese during the affinage. Between two needlepoint mats with cheese boards? I was trying that initially and it looks like that's what I'll have to go back to.

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Brie

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2011, 03:25:07 AM »
The B. Linen cheeses are difficult to age--they need much air! Take it out of the cave every other day (I do believe I have sait this before) for half an hour--you'll be amazed how quickly the rind develops. Good Luck!

Offline Boofer

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2011, 01:27:44 PM »
Thanks, Brie. You have said that before, but I apparently was asleep in class. I am awake now.

They seem really moist in the center.

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2011, 11:01:51 PM »
They should be moist in the center--congrats!

Tomer1

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Re: My #1 Taleggio
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2011, 07:11:48 PM »
Whats your technique to fliping when using such a large mould?
I find it really difficult using large moulds with soft curds without the aid of cheese cloth.
It seems that once I take it out it spreads out and no longer fit the mold so It tends to break a bit and I have to press it back into shape.