Thinking more on Reblochon AOC. And taking a foundling's stab at thinking on cheesemaking process, so posed this to Pav, and posting here, for all to see either some learning, or some delusion.
Anyway, re-reading Reblochon AOC, again surprised by the curd size: same as Beaufort AOC. Perhaps I've been thinking of reblochon as softer than it really should be - closer to the tomme-pole of the tomme-reblochon-Mont D'Or continuum? Anyway, AOC:
"...un tranche caillé l'ensemble en petits morceaux de la taille d'un grain de blé à celui d'un grain de maïs..."
Identical to the Beaufort AOC. They cut to the same size, wheat-to-corn grains; so how do they obtain a softer paste? My off the cuff thoughts:
Not fat, as Reblochon v. Beaufort of FFB 45% reb. v. 48% minimum for Beaufort; so it comes down to:
- a higher moisture via lower pre-rennet pH/submicelle hydration and less cooking in the reblochon - so that even with the same, small curd size, the lower temp, pH and cooking all lead to a moister curd in the reblochon; moister curd, softer paste, ceteris paribus;
-a different proteolytic dynamic entirely, due to the different rind developments, penetration, and paste action.
Learned ones, about right?
Heck, while I'm here, thinking on next autumn and winter, and Mont D'Or (you can pull the boy from the braising season, but not the braising season from the boy).
Re-reading Madeleine Kamman's
Savoie. (Love that grand old dame). Interesting, she indicates vacherin gets minimal cutting and no stirring. I asked Pav if this was his experience as well, and he gave his usual pellucid and helpful reply, re: desired moisture levels and consequent make planning. My thought in reply was - apprentice, here, trying to think for himself:
My presumption, is fat as hell, and wet; though a lot of the unctuousness comes from fat, and not entirely an extreme moisture - that said, still high MFFB: How's this sound? MFFB of 70%, FFB of 65%. Winter milk, perhaps even enriched with cream; 5x multiplier, even more acidic pre-rennet than your reblochon suggestion, 1/2" curd, no stirring.
Again, I'm posting this as a ditto to my reply to Pav; merely a thought exercise. If I'm wrong, please forgive, I will correct, and if I'm right, hopefully it's helpful - both in substance, and in seeing a noob trying to think through these processes and desired ends.
