Author Topic: Tulum cheese  (Read 9047 times)

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Tulum cheese
« on: July 18, 2011, 03:35:26 AM »
Hi Guys and Gals,

I am developing this cheese that is aged in a sheep or goat skin (Tulum) in Turkey. It is a crumbly cheese with sharp taste. I have found some research papers and derived this recipe. There is a blue version of this cheese as well and it is the most saught after. I am planning to do it this weekend's batches and the recipe is open to dicsussion.

When I am developing the formula, I have taken 2 cheeses of this type as a base, one is aged in a sheep stomach and the other aged in a goats skin. Both used mixture of goat's and sheep's milk. As I am using cow's milk, I am adding lipas.

The additional butter and yogurt is to add flavour during the 4 months of aging.

For casing, I will be using cow bungs which are large enough (about 6 or 7 cm) and fill them with my sausage stuffer.

CaCl2 is also added to fix store bought milk.

Both recipes I used are doing tremendous amount of pressing to get rid of the whey as much as they can. I am keeping temps on the higher end to remove the whey also an extended period of pressing with smaller cube sizes during the cutting.

One recipe also uses whey ricotta mixed with this cheese before stuffing.

There is no indication of bacterial flora for this cheese and I am guessing it will be diverse as they used fresh milk, I have decided to use mesophilic flora danica type. Later addition of cultured butter and yogurt will add required thermo type bacteria for ripening. Butter will also help excessive moisture loss from the casings.

Ingredients
20 litre cow's milk
Mesophilic starter
1/8 tsp Lipas
1/2 tsp CaCl2
Rennet
%3 cultured butter
%2 or %3 salt
%20 Yogurt (clean, unopened box)

Making
Add CaCl2 and lipas to cold milk stir well.

Take the milk to 34C and add mesophilic starter according to factory default dosage.

Wait an hour for ripening of the milk

Add rennet according to factory default dosage and wait about 1.5 to 3 hours for the clean break.

Cut to 1cm cubes, keep the temp at 34C

Stir slowly and wait for 10 minutes. Do this 3 times.

Take the curd to a cheese cloth lined colander and gravity drain between 10 to 36 hours.

While the cheese is draining, make a ricotta from the remaining whey. Drain ricotta as much as you can.

Mix cheese and ricotta by breaking into small pieces by hand.

Prepare your press and press the mixture with 30kg for 2 days.

At the end of the press, weigh your cheese and calculate how much salt, yogurt and butter you will need.

Mix cheese, yogurt and butter, mix well and start adding salt slowly. You may not need to add all the salt. Keep it to your preference. More salt will keep the cheese better and longer.

Some recipes of Tulum also incorporate roasted onion seeds. You can add them now.

Fill this mixture to cow middles.

Get your cave working on %70 or %80 humidity and 5C to 10C degrees and hang your cheeses. this is to simulate cave conditions. Weigh each cheese so that you can calculate how much water is lost.

Aging will take about 2 to 3 months according to the atmospheric conditions.


For some pictures have a look at this URL.

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2011, 09:41:38 PM »
And here are some pictures. Now I need to wait about 3 months.

darius

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2011, 09:50:40 PM »
How interesting!

I'll be watching...

JeffHamm

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2011, 05:14:50 AM »
This looks really interesting. I've never heard of this before so I'm curious to see your reports when they are ready.

- Jeff

Tomer1

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2011, 09:43:02 AM »
Mixing butter with the curds is an interesting idea to enhanch the fattiness of the cheese's texture.

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2011, 09:36:51 PM »
Mixing butter with the curds is an interesting idea to enhanch the fattiness of the cheese's texture.

Also making ricotta from the same batch and mixing that in is interesting for the texture. This recipe has got 3 or 4 things which i've never thought of doing it.

If I get the same results with normal Tulum cheese, I will be chasing a kid or sheep skin for this recipe.  ;D

Tomer1

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2011, 02:04:05 PM »
Just to follow tradition or do they contribute anything to the cheese?

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2011, 09:50:09 PM »
I am doing it to follow the tradition.

I think it has been done not to waste anything in a semi-nomadic life style. We do this cheese on high altitude plateaus in spring and hide in the caves. Farmers take the animals to plateaus because the grass is greener for cattle and sheep. They make cheese there and age it in the caves to be collected next year.

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2011, 01:49:15 AM »
You stuffed you cheese into a sausage casing? Hmmm now you need to smoke it!

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2011, 09:02:14 AM »
I thought about smoking, actually trying to build a cold smoker tray into my smoker.  ^-^

Also, a cam/brie with bacteria is another thing I want to try in the casings.  :o

Offline Boofer

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #10 on: August 20, 2011, 02:15:19 PM »
Gürkan, very interesting thread. I'm sure we'll all be following with curiosity.

Here's a cheese for heading out onto the high altitude plateau.  :)

-Boofer-
Let's ferment something!
Bread, beer, wine, cheese...it's all good.

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2011, 10:04:54 PM »
I tried the small one on the weekend. As expected, it wasn't developed yet. It was dry a bit. I think the slow maturing is achieved with higher humidity and low temperature than my little cave provides and the aroma develops in time.

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2011, 04:41:06 AM »
After trying some of this cheese, I decided that the salt level is nowhere near enough and chucked the intestines into the brine next to my fetas. After a month or so, I removed from the brine and dried it a week in my cave, it is developed nicely. Taste is very close to Turkish tulum and I am happy with the results.

Next time, I will increase the salt levels and keep the curd moist in the beginning to prevent early drying. I used floc multiplier 3 but I think it can easily be 4.

JeffHamm

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2011, 05:54:20 PM »
That sounds like a great result for a first go!  Well done.  Any photos of the aged versions?  A cheese for your success.

- Jeff

Offline Gürkan Yeniçeri

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Re: Tulum cheese
« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2011, 09:55:06 PM »
Hey Jeff, i was busy for the last couple of weeks. I will post the photoes soon.  ^-^