Cracks in Parmesan

[Linda]

Hello all,

I've lurked for a long time but now have cause to post in need of advice.

I made a parmesan last Saturday, using the recipe out of the 200 Easy Cheeses book.   All went well with the make and I followed the recipe exactly.

Yesterday I took it out of the brine, and as stated in the recipe, have been letting it sit at room temperature (average 68f).  I have flipped it twice.

As you can see from the picture, it's cracking badly.  I'm not sure why and was hoping someone here would be able to shed some light on this.  What can I do to fix this? Is it salvageable at all?

Thanks in advance for any help with this.

Bel

[JeffHamm]

Hi,

I suspect your humidity levels are too low, that is usually the cause of cracks.  Try putting it in a ripening box (i.e. tupperware) with a damp cloth.

- Jeff

[iratherfly]

Yes, you should dry it in lower temperature and higher moisture. Not cave moisture, but at least 75% RH.  These cracks could also be caused by a blowout (though they look a bit different so the probability is very low). Have you pressed it hard enough? Are the cracks deep, or shallow on the surface only?

[Linda]

Thanks for the replies!

Now that I had my husband check my math, I'm not sure that it was pressed hard enough.  I  used 4 gallons of milk, and the curds went into a tomme mold as called for in the recipe.  I pressed lightly in the beginning, then for 20 hours with 50lbs of weight on the top, but my husband tells me that the size of the cheese would mean I only had about 1 psi overall...surely that can't be right? 

The cracks are on the surface, they don't seem to be too deep so far.  I have put it in a tupperware as jeff suggested, with a damp towel in the bottom.  I'm wondering if vac packing would help?

Thanks again -

Bel

[JeffHamm]

Hi,

To get your pounds per square inch, take the radius of your cheese in inches, multiple it by itself, then multiply that by 3.14.  That gives you the surface area of the cheese.  Then, divide the amount of weight you put on by the surface area, and you'll get your pounds per square inch.

So, if your cheese has a diameter of 8 inches, then the radius is 4 inches; so 4x4 = 16.  Multiply this by 3.14 and you get 50.24 square inches.  50 lbs spread over 50.24 square inches gives you about 1 lbs/square inch!

A dutch press is really the way to go to get the pressure up.

- Jeff

[linuxboy]

Bel, a higher pressing weight would have helped for sure. But, it is your technique that could have made the bigger difference. if you notice at the splits, there are color gradients. Those gradients point to a moisture differential at the contact points of the curds. Meaning, the tendency of the curds to not fuse was not overcome because the contact points were dissimilar at the point of contact.

Notice I said at point of contact. By this, I mean in the pot or immediately at draining. The way to remedy this is to:
1) Let the curds settle in the pot. They need to fuse into a mass before you drain whey. In traditional parmigiano, they lift up an already formed wheel, not individual curd bits. Look up pressing under whey on the forum for examples and ideas for what I mean.
2) Press the curds in whey, so you obtain an even fuse.

Also, as pointed out, your humidity was too low. However, if the curds were fused properly, it would not crack. It would just become hard on the outside and form this tight rind.

[iratherfly]

One more thing that could be a contributing factor is possibly the curd temperature at pressing. Were they still warm? Cool curd don't knot as well. Linuxboy's suggestion of pressing under the whey could also resolve that (just make sure the whey is still warm). With harder cheese I also pour some gently heated curd on the cheesecloth lined cheese mould before beginning to pile up curd in it. anyway, just a thought. That may have not been your problem at all but something to think of

[linuxboy]

Thx, that completes the fuse dynamic. Appreciate the clarification. Classic parm is made in conical vats. Heated underneath. There's a ton of heat on all those curds that mat at the bottom. Parm mats completely before it is put in hoops. It's not even pressed; it's fully fused when removed and takes shape under its own weight. This is absolutely crucial to understand for parm. That tight texture, it's not due to weights. There's a follower, I suppose, but that's like 10 lbs on top... it's nothing. Rapid heat loss, or not pressing under whey/settling under whey... just not good. Even if you try to make up for it by pressing under 50 PSI, won't help. That was my point, that the cheese texture is created in the pot, before you ever drain the whey.

For parm, it's not even warm when those curds fuse... it's really hot. Almost too hot too handle if you're not used to the temps. They have to fuse, else the texture will be all wrong. Openings inside, cracks, oddities during salting, etc.

[Linda]

Thank you all for your insight.

linuxboy, your comments re curd are correct - now that I've watched a few videos of parm making (closing the barn door after the horse has bolted!), my curds did not mat as you described.  The recipe said to 'let the curds settle', which I did (or thought I did - I couldn't see any on the surface)  but said nothing about them being a solid mass when draining and molding.  They were warm when I did that, but they were definitely small individual curds.  I did pour the whey through the cloth lined mold as you suggest iratherfly.

Well, lots of lessons to be learned here.  My only concern now is if the cheese is edible, or should it be thrown out?

I have truly appreciated the time taken by all to reply to my question.

Bel

[linuxboy]

age it out and eat it. will be good after a year or two

[margaretsmall]

This is really interesting - I haven't attempted parmesan as yet, but I'm sure none of the recipe books suggest this kind of make. Something I'll tuck away for when I have a go.
Margaret

[Linda]

Well...an update on my poor parm...

Now I have a blue mold issue going on.  I wash it with a vinegar/salt mix but because the rind was never smooth (note the lack of "knit" in the pic above), it's insidious.  I'm not sure that it's worth hanging on to anymore?  Anyone ever do a blue parm?

The blue is a serious issue all around and I really don't know what I can do about it.  I'm scrupulous with cleanliness in the kitchen, hand washing and sanitizing etc.  I never have blues out at the same time as others.  And the blues are in a separate cave.  But I have a lovely collection of blue parm and blue reblochon right now. 

Any advice and guidance most gratefully accepted.

Bel

PS:  Margaret, where in Australia are you?  I'm an expat Aussie living in Seattle.

[Melbourne Cheese]

Hi Bel,

I use a recipe for Parm that has me waxing the cheese after drying and brining.  I assume that helps with keeping the mould away.  Might not be too late to wax it if you clean all the mould off first.

Just a suggestion.  Am happy to be correct if any more experienced cheese makers can help.

Cheers

Richard

[Linda]

Thanks Richard, thats a great idea.  I'm not sure it will work in this case though, as the blue is in all the cracks and there's absolutely no way I can get it all out.  Would the mold proliferate under the wax in this case?

I'll take a pic tomorrow -

Thanks!

Bel

PS - love Melbourne - grew up there!

[Cloversmilker]

When I've had blue mold infiltrate a cheese through cracks, it seems to have added to the flavor.  Not the mold itself, but the cheese overall will have a richer more complex flavor.  This has been for cheddars and jacks though, not parm type cheeses.