Question about Derby Cheese

[dthelmers]

This was the recipe I use for fast ripening cheddar. It actually has a nice flavor at 1 week, better texture and flavor at 2 weeks, pretty decent at 3 weeks. The longest I've had one go is 6 weeks, so it's rather like Caerphilly in the ripening time. Since this expressed more whey, I think it may age out longer. I guess I'll try it at 60 days. The Roman writer Columella believed that leaving the cheese in the press for several days made for a harder cheese that would last longer. I would think that small curd cut size and longer hotter scalding would do that; I can't see what the extra press time could accomplish, but I don't know what I don't know, so maybe something is happening.
In "The Dairy of the Farm", he says 4 or 5 days in the press for Cheddar, but for Lancashire 3 days with no salting of the curd, then a week of brining, so I would guess that the cheese is acidifying in the press.

[JeffHamm]

Hi Dave,

I always thought the extended press time was primarily for large wheels, commercial size, and figured it was to ensure all the whey was expelled, internal knits were as good as they were going to get, etc.  while for the home cheesemaker, dealing with 1-2 kg wheels, things weren't going to change much after 24 hours in the press.  But, like you, I don't know what I don't know, although I do know I don't know more than I do, you know? 

- Jeff

[dthelmers]

Hi Jeff,
I think you're right, that these procedures were intended for large batches where even curd size was more difficult. It was interesting, though, to see how much whey was left in a cheese that I had imagined was pretty thoroughly pressed when I broke it up and did the second pressing.
When you said, "I don't know what I don't know, although I do know I don't know more than I do, you know?", I know what you mean. As Socrates said, "All I know is that I know nothing."
I took the cheese out of the press and re-dressed it with a dry cloth. The mold and cloth were quite damp, so it might still be expelling some whey. I just checked the mold again, and there is still some dampness, so it may be squeezing out even more whey. I think you're right that this would be more important for large wheels, not so significant with a four pounder. I'll be very surprised if I find any mechanical openings in this one!
Here's a photo I snapped when I was re-dressing:

[JeffHamm]

This is becomming very interesting.  With the cheese still expelling whey, it seems there may be some benefit to the long press, especially if preparing a cheese for long aging.  Perhaps a cheese intended for quick consumption wouldn't require this treatment, if one were planning a year or more aging, then this might be worth considering.  Thanks for the updates. 

And for although he knew nothing, that old Socrates sure seemed to know what questions to ask!

- Jeff

[dthelmers]

"Questioning answers, and questioning questions" as he said. The oracle at Delphi called him the smartest man in the world, and Socrates felt that this was because he knew his own ignorance, and so was able to learn, where those who supposed they knew could not be corrected. Or as I always say, you can't put anything into a full bucket.
This has been very interesting, and is shedding light onto some traditional practices. This was not a fine cut curd, but these practices may make a cheese very similar to a fine cut curd. I think I'll still try it at 60 days, but I also think I'll age out half the wheel for a year or more in vacuum wrap.

[JeffHamm]

I look forward to your tasting reports, both of them.  I should have room in my cave for another cheese fairly soon, so I may make this my next project as well.  I don't have a dutch press though, and can only get up to about 2.5 PSI, so getting a good knit might be tricky.  May have to do all my initial pressings in the pot - but I probably would have anyway.

- Jeff

[dthelmers]

Is it a matter of space for a press? Dutch presses are not hard to build, and when you add a block and tackle to it, it's just great for Cheddars.

[JeffHamm]

Yes, it's the space thing.  We live in an apartment, and space is a premium.  We're moving next year, and I might be able to fashion something that will fit there.  Will see once we're moved in.  It's easier to move ideas and plans, even if it's not always easier to change them!

- Jeff

[dthelmers]

I understand. I bet if there was an easily stowable folding dutch press, there would be a lot more cheddars being made!

[dthelmers]

Well, after 2 days in the mold at over 9 psi, I took the cheese out to let it start to form its rind; it wasn't expressing any more moisture, the cheese cloth was dry. I'm sure that if this had been a commercial size wheel, it might have still shed some moisture, or used the extra time for compacting any mechanical openings. I suspect that at the time when this book was written, curd cutting may have been uneven, and this process would have helped correct that. As for my little four pounder, breaking up the curd after the first press, re-pressing, and then milling and salting did get rid of a noticeable amount of whey, and I hope that will affect the flavor favorably. I had mis-stated my pressing weights in an earlier post, I went back and corrected them: I was pressing at around 3 psi for the first pressings and 9 for the final.

[JeffHamm]

Thanks Dave.  That sounds like a successful make.  Will be interesting to see how this compares with your usual make for this Cheddar and if it's made any significant and noticable changes.  A cheese for your experimentations.

- Jeff