Author Topic: bloomy rind chevre,can it be turned around  (Read 5462 times)

iratherfly

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Re: bloomy rind chevre,can it be turned around
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2012, 05:41:28 PM »
Crottin is always Goats milk. This is a very standard crottin fabrication and the classic Crottin mould. The final proportions of the puck are just as the Crottin you would buy in the store. (170g)

I don't remove any whey but to get this dense texture that flakes in layers (rather than crumble) and a thinner controllable rind, I dump the curd into a draining bag first (in one shot, very carefully. Can also be ladled into a cheesecloth-lined colander. You can also ladle it but use the biggest ladle you can find so that you minimize the cutting of the curd). Let it hang for a few hours to firm up. Obviously, topping the mould with this much-drier curd will give you a final cheese that is closer to the actual shape of the mould. Filling the mould with very wet curd/whey means a considerably smaller cheese.

Another alternative is to do the Italian style Crottin which is called Caprino. That's a different type of mould that is like a mesh or basket weave pattern. This will allow quick drainage and is really like having a mould and cheesecloth in one. It's easier. 

Pre-draining is a good practice because it also prevents slip skin and early ammonia buildup, bitter flavors and out-of-control geo.  These French Loire Valley style semi-lactics are expected to firm up, dry, eventually become hard enough to grate. If there is too much moisture -they will do the exact opposite and turn liquidy.

Other aspects of yield could be related to calcium, pasteurization method, acidification/renneting period.

Offline NimbinValley

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Re: bloomy rind chevre,can it be turned around
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2012, 11:37:39 PM »
Thanks for that.

Do you drain at say 24hrs or do you target a specific pH?

I was having trouble with slip skin with my lactics but have since modified the cultures and seems to have solved it.  I doubt the cheese would age out beyond 10-14 days though.  I add some TA to my mesophile starter.

Thanks iratherfly.

NVD.

iratherfly

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Re: bloomy rind chevre,can it be turned around
« Reply #17 on: March 15, 2012, 07:00:08 PM »
You are welcome!

I wait to see about 2cm of whey on top of the curd and to see that the curd is either pulling away (shrinking) from the sides of the pot and/or to see some cracks on top of the curd. That happens when the pH is down to about the 4.5-4.7 range, no need to check with a meter (aside for keeping production log).  That aside, I taste and smell the curd and judge it. I like it to be as tangy as Greek yogurt and in some cases this means very acidic (Sometimes as much as 4.3pH!). If the curd looks and feels at my target but the flavor is not there yet, I will let it ripen even longer.

I recently taught my brother in law how to make Chévre up in Ontario Canada. He could only get this ultra pasteurized crap of a goats milk. I pre-ripened it for a few hours before adding the rennet and even after adding rennet it took 24 more hours (instead of 12-18) to get a set curd, but the flavor was not there at all. I waited for the 48th hour for it to taste right and eventually we were able to get really great Chévre and Crottin out of it.

Traditionally, this cheese is a farmhouse cheese that is made in spare time, in between other tasks. The recipe is liberal and is adjusted to taste and seasonal temperature. Timing can be stretched anywhere from 12 to 48 hours and being a naturally extremely acidic cheese, it isn't crucial if you miss your pH target (unless of course you have a specific product that customers expect to be exactly the same every time around of course).

Drain thoroughly, reduce humidity, tap and turn the daily and don't wrap it - skin slippage issues will be resolved. You can also reduce geo activity by putting less of it, moving it earlier to the fridge or salting it a lot. That will help too. The cave aging should be between 10 to 20 days but continue the aging in the fridge - you want the texture to continue improving while the rind halts its growth (yet not die or recede). Once you master these you will keep doing them over and over because they are so easy and satisfying and you won't have much troubleshooting anymore. You should have it nearly perfected in just a few batches. If you intend on doing lots of them, I recommend you get the book 'The Fabrication of Farmstead Goat Cheese'.

Offline NimbinValley

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Re: bloomy rind chevre,can it be turned around
« Reply #18 on: March 15, 2012, 10:52:53 PM »
Thanks for the help irather fly.

I solved the slip skin issue by adding some TA to the mix - 60%MA 40% TA - with the help of linuxboy.  I have seen lactic curd logs with a thick geo rind with NO proteolysis under the rind so I am thinking they have been predrained and then put through an extruder of some kind.  I will give this a go.

Previously when I let the curd ripen out for 24hrs I was draining at a pH of <4.5 but I was getting breakdown under the rind so I now drain at pH 4.9.  The flavour is not as good but has a much better shelf life.

I ordered the book you suggested - Amazon's 'one click' shopping is too easy!  I have a book arriving in the mail in 10 days and all that has happened is that I get a letter in the mail from my credit card company with some bigger numbers on it!!  I haven't even used any money :)

iratherfly

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Re: bloomy rind chevre,can it be turned around
« Reply #19 on: March 29, 2012, 07:49:03 PM »
The TA is a common stabilizing solution but you need to watch out for it. Too much and you will get this altered gummy texture. I use very little (either 1/32 tsp per 2 gal batch or switch from Flora Danica to MA4000 series + MD89. The MA4000 mix has TA culture in it and the MD89 makes up for it being a little less creamy/buttery than Flora Danica).

It's very effective preventing the cheese from breaking down into a runny ammonia, but the cheese still ages and ammoniates! It just ammoniates without turning liquidy, but it will turn dark, stinky and spicy inder the rind.  The real fix for your issue is simply to dry the cheese further and in lower temperature so that the rind develops slower. Use TA to augment this and extend its shelf life.  With TA it may take a few more days to age but it will last in it's perfect ripe condition longer. Just don't over-do it. (You can use a full dose in one batch just to see the difference).

Don't give up on the flavor! Let it go to the 4.5-4.7 pH range. It's much better. They take a little practice but once you'll get it right once -you will make good ones forever.