Author Topic: Gouda #4 & Gouda #1  (Read 4093 times)

iratherfly

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Re: Gouda #4 & Gouda #1
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2012, 08:14:23 AM »
Lactic bacteria continues to multiply rapidly if your cheese and room are too warm in these early stages. With some cheese the formula allows that because they have a different process, pH curve or aging style. Gouda process requires cooler room (think Holland weather vs. Sicilian weather, right?) It is especially true with cheese like Gouda, where you are not trying to bloom molds and yeasts on the rind.

Brine:
should ALWAYS be cool (unless you have a recipe that says otherwise). I say 60°F +/-5°F would work great. You don't want it too cold because the cheese contracts and stiffens and water density is higher so the osmosis activity of the salt is reduced too much and it may over-salt the exterior before it has a chance to get to the heart of the cheese. You don't want it too warm because it will accelerate the lactic bacteria, soften the rind instead of stiffening it, and it may salt too quickly so it will end up over-salted.

Room: air condition it or go to a cooler room if you can, even press it right inside your cave if possible. Think 65°F or so.

Culture: Don't use that mystery C101 culture.  It's not worth it throwing away gallons of expensive milk and months of aging and cave real estate only to be disheartened just because you have some proprietary unpredictable culture. Use a good culture from one of the major culture houses, such as Danisco Choozit KAZU which is probably used in much of the Gouda you buy anyway... for Gouda you need a farmstead culture (mixed meso+thermo) so also commons cultures like MA4000 series (which you can use for anything from Camembert to Tomme to Gouda to Cheddar) can work too. It doesn't give you that traditional dutch flavor/texture though like the Kazu.

Milk: That could be your issue. Supermarket milk is not worth the effort. Especially with a cheese like gouda that has no rind and little salt and it needs to speak volumes for the milk quality. Typically it is made with corn/grain/silage fed cows (industrial cattle junk food) which is laden with antibiotics galore (which are fighting your probiotic lactic bacteria). Moreover, homogenization breaks open the fat globules and basically kill the milk. You have small yield, weird acidification schedule and results that are chalky and brittle. These are also often HTST-pasteurized so they are basically dead - enzymes, minerals, lactic bacteria, amino acids etc. It's just really not proper for cheesemaking beyond fresh spreadable cheeses or simple casual yogurt/labaneh.
« Last Edit: July 14, 2012, 08:28:06 AM by iratherfly »

hoeklijn

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Re: Gouda #4 & Gouda #1
« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2012, 11:52:17 AM »
think Holland weather vs. Sicilian weather, right?

Yep, it's midsummer here, raining cats and dogs and the temp is just below 17C/62.4F. What am I still doing here, except making cheese :o.
We have about the worst summer in a decade...

Monty

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Re: Gouda #4 & Gouda #1
« Reply #17 on: July 14, 2012, 12:39:17 PM »
Yep...we run a little on the hot side here in Alabama!  Great advise, thank you.  Sad how all these small but important details don't make it into the books.  It would help alleviate a lot of disappointment for us young cheeses.

Thankfully I can cool things off considerable for my future makes.  New cultures are also on the way.

Thanks again!!!

iratherfly

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Re: Gouda #4 & Gouda #1
« Reply #18 on: July 14, 2012, 07:34:27 PM »
Herman, sorry, we seem to have stallen the sunshine in NYC this year from everyone else!

Monty - no problem. you can always send me a message if you have a question or need cultures/moulds. These small details are the skills and what eventually becomes your common sense when embarking on new cheese formulas (or other cultured foods). Culturing food is not cooking so it's only fair that you give yourself a break as you run into an entirely new skillset and new-found common sense that is called upon to deploy at the places/times where you least expect it.  The problem with many of these cheese recipe books is that they assume you have this common sense or skillset just as cook books give you a recipe end expect you know you can't just start the dough mixed on the highest speed, or that you have the sensitivity to figure out that your onions will burn at high heat rather than caramelize. you have done it for years. So when it comes to cheese books, how (and why on earth) would you have the natural instinct to think "cool this thing down, this room will make it acidic!" know what I mean?  don't worry, allow yourself some spilled milk, a few bad cheeses and a few good ones and in a couple of months you would have figure out most of the basics!

My suggestion by the way is to start off with cheeses that needs less aging. You can do fully aged 3 constantly-improving cycles of Camembert or 6 cycles of Crottin by the time you do only a single fully-aged Gouda or Cheddar. This way, not only you would have achieved lots of nice cheese in short time, but in 2-3 months your confidence level and instincts when dealing with these expensive-to-make acid-sensitive hard/semi-hard cheeses will be far greater. My 5 cents.