Kelley's Morbier Cheese

[Webmaster]

Member Kelley posted some great info on her experiences making Morbier Cheese with the middle ash layer on a different thread.

So that this info is more findable to other Members, I've moved it to it's own new thread.

[Laughingfrog]

(sorry, this probably should have been posted under the 'Ash' posting, but I followed a link here from there, and read the comment about HF). Humboldt Fog is a goats milk rendition of Morbier Cheese, with a line of ash sprinkled in the middle . Traditionally, Ash helped preserve the curds until the next milking provided enough curds to finish the cheese. To make it you need to actually make two batches of cheese 12 hours apart.  The first time I made morbier, I put the layer of ash evenly across the first half of curds in the mold, all the way to the edge, then 12 hours later did another batch and covered it with more curds. After pressing, the two halves fell apart and, like humpty dumpty, wouldn't go back together again. I realized that I should have left an ash free outer edge so that the curds would seal together! I tried to wipe down a clean edge, but you can imagine the mess. I stubbornly kept the two pieces together throughout the ripening process, and eventually they grew together, although there was always a funny line on the outside. I think I still have a photo, let me see...oh, yes, here it is. (The copper wire in the photo is a probe that keeps the temperature where I want it.) I have fun memories of that cheese, because the ash I had ordered hadn't come in, so we made our own... Morbier is a wonderful cheese...

[Alex]

Hi Kelley,

Can you please share with us your Morbier recipe

TIA

[Laughingfrog]

My recipe for Morbier comes from 200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes, by Debra Amrein-Boyes,( a great book) and is the same as is posted by Debi at  https://cheeseforum.org/forum/index.php/topic,1146.0.html.

[Bella]

Hi Kelley
I'm glad to see someone else making this cheese – it's one of my favourites. I've only made it three times, and using a 'recipe' I worked out from the official website for the cheese.

I too had problems with (a) the ash; and (b) the knitting of the two halves, but I also tried to cut corners. Firstly, I made the cheese from the same batch each time, but left the first half to sit for a while before adding the top half. When I made the first cheese, I had trouble with the knit and the cheese would fall into two pieces when cutting a slice. I worked out that it's a bit of a trick to get the bottom half dry enough to hold the ash, but not so dry that the two halves do not knit.

The other issue of course, is the ash. The first time I did as you – put the ash right to the edges, but when I added the second half, the ash went everywhere, so I know exactly what you mean when you described your experience for it was mine also. I did wipe it off, but the cheese looked very much like a black vein!!! This was particularly the case when I tried to press it – the ash oozed out and went everywhere yet again.

I made a second cheese a few days later and tried to remedy these problems, but there was no real difference. Quite some time later, I decided to have a third go, and realized when I read the recipe that I had made a huge mistake with both of the earlier cheeses – I totally forgot to wash the rind!!!

There were still the problems of ash ooze, but I took a lot more care with this one, and I think I got the timing of the join a bit better as the cheese remained intact when it was cut. Now the flavour of the first two was pretty good, but the texture (and flavour) was totally different from the third. The first two were more crumbly, while the third one was creamy and smooth – absolutely delicious.

This is a photo of the first one, and you can see the crumbly texture, and the second photo is of the third cheese which is better.

I'm still at a loss as to how to press this cheese effectively, and even in cheese No. 3, there are holes indicating that there was insufficient pressure (from memory, I think I used 8kg). It would be great if we could work this one out as it's a really fine cheese!
B

[Cheese Head]

Kelley & Bella

Just want to say beautiful cheeses, very impressed!

[DeejayDebi]

Very nice guys. I've never tried this but it looks pretty.

[Tea]

Oh that looks excellent you pair.  Bella is the third cheese a washed rind?  Just wondering what the finished rind of the cheese was?

[Laughingfrog]

Hi Bella,
Most morbier that I have seen does have at least a few of those little holes in it.  Did it taste as good as it looked? Since this cheese only requires light to medium pressing, I would be careful with more pressing.  I wonder if it is a pressing issue or perhaps just your culture? Do you remember what culture you used? A farmstead starter, such as MA 4001, tends to produce open texture, due to rapid acidification, then the thermophilic LD that is also in it produces gas which might explain it. Still,it was a beautiful cheese!

[Bella]

Hi Kelley
I used both Type A (meso) and Type C (thermo) starters.

Again, because I didn't start with a recipe, I guestimated the pressure, and because of the ash ooze, it wasn't too great (probably 8kg but I didn't record it), but next time, I'll perhaps use one of my smaller weights. If in doubt, I use 8kg because that weight is the largest of my gym weights in diameter and provides more stability to the pressing and reduces the chances of a badly uneven surface.

The cheese was divine (third one), and the first two were OK, just not as smooth as the third. Interestingly, I found a small wedge at the back of the fridge the other day, and after cutting off the ugly stuff on the edges (yesterday), and the rind that had an ammonia tinge to it, the pate was still quite good, and I made that cheese back in June from raw milk. So the shelf life is pretty good.
B

[Tropit]

Those are beautiful!  I've been following this post because I've been wanting to make a morbier and I've also been experimenting with ash on other cheeses.

So...I'm in TJ's the other day and I see a chunk of Morbier in the deli case.  Of course, it has to go into my cart.  That evening, I serve it with some wine and as we're munching away, I'm carefully taking the piece of Morbier apart, just to see how it's made.  (The more wine I consume, the more obsessed I become.)  Anyway...I've decided that the makers did not use very much ash at all...just a fine dusting.  Maybe a salt shaker or pastry duster would work to get it on thinly.

[DeejayDebi]

Darn those carts anyway! Cheese stuff jus keeps jumping in there all by itself.

So tell me ... do you really taste the ash or is it mostly decoration?

[Tropit]

Hee...hee!  I Knoooow!  Those milk products just love my shopping cart!!!  They sit there in their refrigerated cases anxiously waiting for me to roll by.  They spock me out as soon as I walk in the door.  I'll bet the do that for you too!   

I think that the TJ cheese has the ash in there for decoration.  It probably had the purpose of perserving the top of the cheese until the next batch of curds came along, but I don't think they do that now. 

And that's why we make cheese.

[Bella]

Hi
Tropit - yes, I use a shaker to put the ash on the curd - it helps to keep it evenly layered and you have more control when you get closer to the edges. It's probably about 1mm thick, or thereabouts.

Debi - no, you don't taste the ash - I reckon it's there more for the decoration these days now that the original purpose for it no longer applies
B

[DeejayDebi]

Thanks Bella - So I guess saving different batches of ash from my smoker like pecan or cherry won't matter then huh?