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Microperforated Mould from Servidoryl USA

Started by siegfriedw, September 27, 2009, 12:13:04 AM

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DeejayDebi

It would be pretty kewl if we didn't have to mail them all over the place.

siegfriedw

Well I finally got a reply on Cleaning. They sent me a reply that obviously came from another user (and they admitted that) so I will post it here without the names:

"Robert,

We have only tried the round shouldered mould, as we were taken by its shape.

Flipping the cheese is unbelievably easy! Our lever press seems to have enough pressure (increased gradually over time) to form the cheese. The mould drains well and leaves a smooth surface. We have had no problem with sticking. We have been using a plastic pastry scraper (thin &

flexible) to go around the interior edge to free the cheese when dehooping...it works really well, and on inversion the cheese pops readily out. Afterwards the "squeeze out" cheese is trimmed with a serrated knife.

To clean we first spray the moulds with water from our sink's pressured spray nozzle. We are soaking the moulds in our dairy soap solution, brushing, then rinsing in water. Then we acid rinse soak them. The top and bottom fit handily together in one of our sink bays. After air drying, we then sanitize them in 100ppm chlorox/water solution before use.

Pretty exciting!

Is that shape also available in a 5-6 pound mould?

Enjoy your weekend,"

linuxboy

Ziggy, I use a similar approach as Francois and the instructions you posted, but more adopted to a smaller scale and equipment. I don't have a stainless sink, for example (not yet).

First, I scrub and spray to force large bits off. Then, I make a solution of percarbonate (this is roughly the same as most basic cleaning solutions, like dairy cleansers). I make the solution in a large (32 gal? might be 40) trash can and dump the molds in. I usually am too tired/lazy to clean everything immediately, so I let that soak overnight or during the rest of the day. The next day, I spray again and scrub with a cleaning brush to get any remaining pieces off. Then I toss everything in a citric acid solution, again made in a garbage can. I get both cleansers in bulk 50 lb bags from a winemaking supply shop. They come out pretty cheap, something like $1/lb. The garbage cans are #2, HDPE plastic. This is important, make sure you check what type of plastic they are and use #1 PETE or #2 HDPE. #3 is not considered food grade; I think #3 is PVC.

You can also use buckets if a garbage can is too big. But I really like having a bunch of ready made solution available.

Anyway, after the citric acid bath, I rinse and store. Then similar to what you posted, sanitize in food grade iodine solution, then a dunk in a water bath to clean residues, and use.

I think if you're at the point of using microperf molds, it's time to spend a bit of money and have a dedicated space and cleaning area because it's not fun cleaning them in the kitchen sink.

siegfriedw

Thanks - I hope to have that setup in the spring by which time my "licensed facility" should be built.