Okay, so I'm trying to get close to the real style of the cheeses I make. That includes using the true-to-style mold for a particular cheese. In the case of Taleggio, I am led to understand the cheese should be square.
I didn't have square Taleggio molds, but I did happen to have a stainless steel brick mold. I very recently used it for Esrom, in keeping with that style, and thought maybe I could put it to work making Taleggio. The pictures tell the tale, but not all of it. Boy, was it a hassle wrestling this very soft "brick", trying to flip it and retain the brick shape. For one thing, the brick mold was too tall for this technique. It would have worked so much better with a lower, more conventional Taleggio mold. Those are on my wish list for the future. I will not be making Taleggio in my brick mold any more. What a pain!
I cursed a bit and got a little frustrated with how the flipping went, but I did manage to come up with two workable cheeses. I've kept the cheese out in the garage since it came out of the mold. The temperature out there has been a comfy 45-50F. A recently purchased cave #2 will be its new home going forward.
I misted these cheeses today with SR3 in a light brine. I'm now starting to see a little surface growth.
I wanted to include this description to help characterize the style. If the Wiki input were available, it should more properly be included in there:
"Taleggio is a soft pressed, washed rind cow milk cheese form the Lombardy region of northern Italy. It is made from both lightly pasteurized and raw milk, unfortunately the U.S. FDA will not allow the raw milk version to be imported into to the country because it is aged for only 40 days. Taleggio has been given DOP certification which insures the quality of the cheese and the methods of its production. Luckily the Taleggio that is imported to the US is DOP certified and usually comes from the semi- Alpine Valtellina area in the northern part of Lombardy. Here the cheese is produced in small batches by several commercial cheese companies. Thankfully this cheese is getting easier to find in the US.
Tallegio can vary in flavor and consistency of its inner paste. When it is young (about 40-50 days) it will be fruity and mildly salty with a firm white interior, but as it matures it will become softer ( almost oozy) and will have a beefy buttery flavor with hints of nuts and just a hint of salt. Taleggio has a minimum fat content of 48%. The consistency of a ripe or mature Taleggio is almost like that of a ripe Brie where it bulges but does not get runny. This is a brine washed rind cheese so it will have a bit of a stink. The rind itself is a bit unsightly and will have a pink or slight brick color. It may also have areas of mold on it but this might be hard to see since it comes wrapped in a layer of paper. Do not worry about any mold on the outer rind because it does not affect the integrity or quality of the inner paste. If the outer layer of paper is stuck to the rind and is very hard to peel off this is a sign that the cheese is ripe and in perfect condition to eat and enjoy. If the paper pulls off easily and the cheese feels very firm to the touch you will have found a young version. Once again like Brie, this cheese is alive and will continue to age until it is cut, once it is cut the aging process stops. So if the cut Tallegio you found is young it will remain that way and the full flavor will not develop. The interior paste of a ripe Taleggio should have a slight yellow custard color. Taleggio's rind is considered by a few cheese purists to be edible however almost everyone will remove it. I personally find it to be inedible so I prefer to remove the rind entirely and just scoop out the wonderful inner pate.
You can serve Taleggio melted over rice or polenta and as a table cheese with fresh fruit, nuts and honey. It is also great with thinly sliced meats or fruit on a grilled sandwich like a panini or spread on a warm croissant for breakfast.
Wine paring: It pairs well with big Italian reds like Barolo, Chianti Riserva, Soave or Barbaresco
Lester Majkowicz writes for the popular Around The World Cheese website. You can learn about storing, purchasing, preparation and find reviews for fine gourmet cheese by reading the articles at http://www.aroundtheworldgourmetcheese.com (http://www.aroundtheworldgourmetcheese.com).
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lester_Majkowicz (http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Lester_Majkowicz)
"
-Boofer-
They look very well!!!
I have two questions, what is SR3 and if it's possible to you to give the recipe you used.
This was one of the cheeses I've tried doing, the result was no so good: I think I had some problems with the quantity of whey removed and with the ripening. It has got the reddish rind but there was too much proteolysis under it and the centre was a little acid. I ripened it in the cellar and I think the temperature was too high (16- 18 ºC): The temperature for ripening should be 2-6 ºC and 85-90 % HR
I have a recipe from an Italian book, where it's recommended to wash the cheese once a week with light brine. I can write that recipe if you want.
Thanks Soledad
Thank you, they are still very early in their process.
The recipe is actually pulled from Brie's, Bella's, clherestian's, and Paul Dixon's Taleggio recipes. I wanted to form a consensus about the proper way to make this cheese. Then, of course, I add in my own personal technique.
SR3 is the red bacteria also known as b. linens (brevibacterium linens or coryneform bacteria). See the attached chart from glengarrycheesemaking.com (http://glengarrycheesemaking.on.ca/starterscultures.htm).
-Boofer-
Thank you Boofer, there was lot of nice info at Taleggio.
Bottle of Barolo huge piece of Taleggio and some nice bread, let's party :)
Yours Taleggio's has very nice shape.
Hande
This is what I have done and between brackets what the book says
Taleggio's Recipe.
Pasteurized milk
At 42 ºC add 1, 5 % yogurt and 2 % of Termophilic culture from milk. Wait 30 ´ (Termophilic culture from milk or commercially cultures of a mixture of S Thermophilus and L. d. ssp bulgaricus).
At 37 º C Add Calcium chloride 0, 3 / l and Rennet 1:10000/ 0, 4 ml/l
Coagulation in 20-30 ´
Cut in 2,5 cm blocks/ wait 15' / cut to 1,5 cm blocks mixing carefully 3- 4 '/ wait 10' / mix carefully 3- 4'/ 10 '
Mould
Leave the cheese in the mould at 22- 25º C for 8-16 hours (stufatura).
During this step flip first at 30' and there times after an hour
Dry salt or brine al 18% a 12°C)
Ripening at 2-6 º C and 80-90 % HR for 35 days, washing with light brine weekly
Soledad
Sole--make certain to let this cheese out of it's box and cave a few times everyweek to develop the b.linens--for about a half hour each time. I have found this is a critical step. Good luck, and kepp us posted!
Hmmmm . . . so I notice you cut this in half to make 2 cheeses? Curious to hear how it matures.
I recently (as described elsewhere here) started some tomme-ish cheese in a taller 'hard cheese' cylindrical mold and cut in half to yield 2 shorter cheeses, lightly pressing again afterwards with them each separately wrapped in cheesecloth to try to help rind development. Despite this 'finishing' pressing, I have noticed that the cut sides behave very differently than the others. One I steeped in beer and the cut side absorbed much more liquid and became much darker. On the others, mold has grown OK on the other sides, but much less on the cut side.
Would be interested to hear if you have any similar experiences with this. . . .
Off topic, Boofer, where did you get your brick mold from? Or is it homemade?
Quote from: CheeseSnipe on March 01, 2011, 04:32:45 AM
Off topic, Boofer, where did you get your brick mold from? Or is it homemade?
Ullmer's Dairy Equipment (http://www.ullmers-dairyequipment.com/). I think it was about $25.
Quote from: Brandnetel on March 01, 2011, 02:32:20 AM
Hmmmm . . . so I notice you cut this in half to make 2 cheeses? Curious to hear how it matures.
I only let the curds set up and then made the cut so there really wasn't a long time before I cut. I'm hoping all sides progress at an even pace.
-Boofer-
Quote from: Brie on March 01, 2011, 12:18:19 AM
Sole--make certain to let this cheese out of it's box and cave a few times everyweek to develop the b.linens--for about a half hour each time. I have found this is a critical step. Good luck, and kepp us posted!
Thanks for the advice. When I did my taleggio in the cellar , it developed the B linens OK ( only washing it with brine), but if I do one now I would ripen it in the fridge ( because we are finishing summer here), and I won´t use SR3 because it´s not available for me, so I think it´s a good idea to put the cheese outside ( perhaps the cellar ).
Soledad
Well this is an interesting experiment. The dreaded slip skin has been here for a while now. I've tried to keep the humidity high enough to preclude that problem, but it happened anyway. I've been fighting blues and other invaders while trying to keep from pulling the cheese apart. The edges are very tender and I am still lifting and turning both of them. The square shape also presents a few problems. The edges no doubt dry faster than a round shape would.
It's a learning experience. After sampled a genuine Italian Taleggio very recently I really want to know how to develop the sticky, creamy paste (like very soft taffy). I'm thinking higher pH (6.4-6.5) into the mold for a sweeter paste and let the pH develop slightly over the course of the molding and affinage.
I would also like to know how to handle the cheese during the affinage. Between two needlepoint mats with cheese boards? I was trying that initially and it looks like that's what I'll have to go back to.
-Boofer-
The B. Linen cheeses are difficult to age--they need much air! Take it out of the cave every other day (I do believe I have sait this before) for half an hour--you'll be amazed how quickly the rind develops. Good Luck!
Thanks, Brie. You have said that before, but I apparently was asleep in class. I am awake now.
They seem really moist in the center.
-Boofer-
They should be moist in the center--congrats!
Whats your technique to fliping when using such a large mould?
I find it really difficult using large moulds with soft curds without the aid of cheese cloth.
It seems that once I take it out it spreads out and no longer fit the mold so It tends to break a bit and I have to press it back into shape.
Quote from: Tomer1 on March 18, 2011, 07:11:48 PM
Whats your technique to fliping when using such a large mould?
I find it really difficult using large moulds with soft curds without the aid of cheese cloth.
It seems that once I take it out it spreads out and no longer fit the mold so It tends to break a bit and I have to press it back into shape.
Yeah, this was my first Taleggio and I tried to use a too-tall brick mold. I knew it had to drain really well before I unmolded it. I did attempt to unmold it too early and it started to collapse because it was still too wet. I quickly got it back into the mold, but I sliced a little off one edge because the mold was too tall and I couldn't easily handle the very soft curd. Yeesh! How aggravating and frustrating!
You are right...when I tried to flip the cheese in the mold it had to travel the height of the mold to reach the other needlepoint web. Achieving that simple task without having the curd try to stack up on one end, or at least
lean towards one end, was a genuine challenge. Having it fall straight through the mold to the other open end where the webbing was proved to be a difficult task. That's why I say the mold was too tall for this effort. Something along the lines of no perceivable "fall" or, at the most, portions of an inch or under 3 cm. As it was, I was trying to fall some 4 inches without trashing the brick. That too was trouble.
Trying to flip a brick. ;) Remember, it didn't become two cheeses until it had drained and was just about to come out of the mold.
If I do this again, I will use either the two Camembert molds I have or I'll buy some real Taleggio square molds. The very soft cheeses are something I haven't concentrated on. I've been primarily focused on semi-soft, semi-hard, and hard cheeses (Esrom, Goutaler, Tomme, Beaufort).
-Boofer-
Quote from: Brandnetel on March 01, 2011, 02:32:20 AM
Hmmmm . . . so I notice you cut this in half to make 2 cheeses? Curious to hear how it matures.
I recently (as described elsewhere here) started some tomme-ish cheese in a taller 'hard cheese' cylindrical mold and cut in half to yield 2 shorter cheeses, lightly pressing again afterwards with them each separately wrapped in cheesecloth to try to help rind development. Despite this 'finishing' pressing, I have noticed that the cut sides behave very differently than the others. One I steeped in beer and the cut side absorbed much more liquid and became much darker. On the others, mold has grown OK on the other sides, but much less on the cut side.
Would be interested to hear if you have any similar experiences with this. . . .
There is a difference in the cut versus the non-cut sides. I don't know why because there was no real aging or drying that occurred after the cut. The cut side holds up really well and the opposite side sags and oozes at this point 26 days later. The other two sides seem to behave more properly, holding up, not sagging or oozing, but still seeming to slightly crinkle with the culturing/affinage. I have pics that I will post later that I snapped this morning.
-Boofer-
Quote from: Boofer on March 19, 2011, 03:14:23 PMTrying to flip a brick. ;)
OK, (a) full disclosure: you made me google this and (b) "I don't know what you're talking about, officer - linuxboy told me this was just
P. Candidum". Lol, I am going to get a totally undeserved reputation if I keep falling for these *cough* opportunities *cough* but the humor is hard to resist . . .
Thanks for sharing the update on the cut sides difference continuing also. You will likely have noted my own cut Tomme reports here (https://cheeseforum.org/forum/index.php/topic,6180). I don't think I would cut an already pressed cheese again based on my own experience.
Quote from: Brandnetel on March 22, 2011, 03:01:27 AM
Quote from: Boofer on March 19, 2011, 03:14:23 PMTrying to flip a brick. ;)
OK, (a) full disclosure: you made me google this and (b) "I don't know what you're talking about, officer - linuxboy told me this was just P. Candidum". Lol, I am going to get a totally undeserved reputation if I keep falling for these *cough* opportunities *cough* but the humor is hard to resist . . .
Thanks for sharing the update on the cut sides difference continuing also. You will likely have noted my own cut Tomme reports here (https://cheeseforum.org/forum/index.php/topic,6180). I don't think I would cut an already pressed cheese again based on my own experience.
Okay...now you made me google (http://www.thesource4ym.com/teenlingo/) it! No, no, no...I REALLY meant to flip the cheese brick
physically. I do get the humor, but I felt I had to be very clear here. We're talking dairy product, not green produce. Some folks may read this too literally.
Well, now that I've taken the fun out of all that, let's proceed. I too will not be cutting a pressed cheese even though it wasn't pressed. For some strange reason the cut side doesn't have the same character as the other three sides. Eh, it was worth a try and I did get educated in the process.
-Boofer-
I've seen some examples of Taleggio here on the forum. I've sampled Taleggio and thought it was pretty tasty.
Here's my "problem": the Taleggio cheese that members have made here are firmer and more towards semi-soft rather than soft as the Taleggio I sampled. On iGourmet.com (http://www.igourmet.com/shoppe/cheese.asp?top=top), I found Taleggio shown in their photo as a young cheese. You can see by the D.O.P. picture of the boy with milk pails on the rind that they are the same cheese. The ripened pic is the one I sampled. Sorry for the look of the younger pic, but I had to flip it upside-down to compare the boy with the milk pails.
I'm wondering what the difference in age is between what I sampled and what the "younger" cheese is.
I wrapped one of my cheeses today in cheese paper and stored it in the regular fridge which is probably around 35F. It is at the 33 day mark. I know that the 40 day mark is the proper point in time to get into the Taleggio, but I felt I had to take this step today. Later this afternoon I will sample the other remaining cheese that is still in the ripening box. The rind looks on the verge of being out of my control at this point with a lot of grays, blacks and some orange and white. There is some ooze visible in a gap in the saggy skin.
Does anyone know what that rind covering is that has the printing and pictures of the boy with milk pails? It is inedible. It seems to hold the soft curd together and protect it from infection.
I will approach the tasting this afternoon with an open mind and the knowledge gained from doing this first Taleggio. I'm not even sure it can be given that name.
-Boofer-
I just happened to notice that my "Taleggio" has been wrapped up and virtually forgotten in the main fridge keeper drawer for the past two weeks. Oh oh. I may be in trouble here. I will check it after work tonight.
-Boofer-
CHEESE EMERGENCY! Let us know how the 'patient' fares, very curious . . . . .
A surprise. No, the rind didn't overtake the entire cheese.
The taste is creamy, slightly salty, a little drier than I expected, a little musty. Overall, very nice.
I wouldn't classify this as a Taleggio, chiefly because the creamy, ooziness isn't there. With the genuine Taleggio I tasted recently, that cheese had a particular stickiness like very soft taffy.
-Boofer-
Why would someone use TA50 and LB340 for Taleggio?
Wow, a month later! Unwrapping this cheese I really wasn't sure what I would find. The first pic looks pretty nasty. Then I cut into it. Okay, not too bad inside. Trimmed, the paste looks very nice.
There was no odor of ammonia. The paste was smooth and creamy, a little crumbly in places. The main problem was too much salt. The salt level didn't seem to stop the rind from developing a colorful community. I found the salt level too much to continue enjoying this cheese. The remainder will be donated to the compost bin.
I learned a few things from this experience and for those bits of knowledge, I am grateful.
-Boofer-
It is surprisingly white and crumbly. Are you using homogenized milk?
Why are you taking off all the rind? It helps the cheese stay alive. It seems to me that the cheese was wrapped and the rind had suffocated and stopped working properly. The best practice with Tallegio is to put them in a wooden box and turn them once in a while. They won't dry and become better in time. Also, by the looks of it I would try either slightly less acidification or a different acidifying culture on your next make. Generally though, it looks really nice!
The rind was only removed from the piece I was sampling. I think the relatively high level of salt inhibited the culture action. So, I can't wrap a cheese like this in cheese paper and stick it in the fridge? When I did that, I assumed whatever development was going to occur had and now I'd just hold it in stasis.
Is there anyone out there who has developed a Taleggio with a soft, sticky, taffy-like paste? It actually oozes, like it's melting on a hot day, but it's not like Brie.
-Boofer-
Boofer, mine came out pretty well. Unfortunately, I think I went into a trance after I cut it, 'cause I can't find a picture of the inside!
Pam - GORGEOUS!!!!! Would love to see the inside!
Boofer - what temperature was your cave and how long did you age it?