With the new job, there are many cheeses that are new to me as far as making them. There is quite a variety that we produce; a couple camembert style, mountain style, 2 washed rind, and a fresh cheese. I got to thinking, this is a Swiss-Italian family operation, and these are cheeses in the style of their ancestral land, Valle Maggia. Is the great variety a result of the influence of the surrounding countries, or were they developed in their respective areas? Does anyone know a good reference work I should try to read on the history of Swiss cheeses?
I have read mostly primary sources about it, and have pieced together my own narrative from studying history and the theoretical progression of cheeses as a form of milk preservation. Paul's new book has some details you might find helpful.
I have never thought the alpine styles to be that varied. How do you mean? Flavor wise?
What I mean, LB, is that all the cheeses I mentioned are all made in Valle Maggia. With the Swiss having such a long history of cheesemaking, I'm wondering if they came up with some of the other styles independently (Cam, washed rind), or if these were learned from the French. If learned from the French, how long of a history do these cheeses have in Switzerland? How about the Alpine? Maybe an Italian influence? I'm afraid I know very little about Switzerland's history, and less about how the different styles of cheese were introduced there. Clearly they had much influence from the surrounding countries, as I know French, German, and Italian are all spoken there. Did they teach the french Gruyere? What is the name of Paul's book?
I think you should stop thinking in terms of country origins, to be honest. Defined country are less than 300 years old. The Gruyere dates from at least the 15th century. Most recipes for cheese are abbey founded, since they usually were the largest land holders. Latin is the language learned by all priest so perhaps this is link your looking for.
Quote from: smilingcalico on May 26, 2012, 06:20:38 AM
What I mean, LB, is that all the cheeses I mentioned are all made in Valle Maggia. With the Swiss having such a long history of cheesemaking, I'm wondering if they came up with some of the other styles independently (Cam, washed rind),
No, there were not so much deliberate inventions as they were natural coincidences and practices based on the geography, which influenced local flora and ability to get cheese to market in a timely way. Read https://cheeseforum.org/forum/index.php/topic,6945.msg49918.html#msg49918 (https://cheeseforum.org/forum/index.php/topic,6945.msg49918.html#msg49918)
Tradition of high cook temp cheeses has been around in Italy for a long time. If you follow the cheeses, you have pecorino in tuscany, then it moves to cow milk for pamigiano-reggiano, then go north, have grana, then go to piedmonte, you have montasio, then follow along the lago maggiore, and you have the farmstead gruyeres (the alpines). There was enough traded that other technologies (bloomy, washed) made their way in. That's why in the gruyere tradition, it's a trappist-like wash with morge, but the cheese is really hard, high temp cook type.
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or if these were learned from the French.
Generally, yes. Low land/valley cheeses didn't have to travel as long, could be bloomy.
QuoteIf learned from the French, how long of a history do these cheeses have in Switzerland?
IIRC, it took about 400-500 years for bloomies to make their way in, so 12-14 century. semi-bloomies (complex rind) like the toma piedmontese was more likely. it takes effort to make a consistently good bloomy type in a new area.
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The How about the Alpine? Maybe an Italian influence?
This is just a farmstead montasio variant, going back to the pecorino traditions of Rome. It's a completely Italian cheese in origin. Borders didn't exist in the same way they do now.
QuoteI'm afraid I know very little about Switzerland's history, and less about how the different styles of cheese were introduced there. Clearly they had much influence from the surrounding countries, as I know French, German, and Italian are all spoken there.
I would go as far as to say they do not have their own innovations beyond basic toma types, and cheese traditions converge there from all of its neighbors.
QuoteDid they teach the french Gruyere?
Not going to poke that hornet's nest. Check out my writeup in the earlier link, has some background.
QuoteWhat is the name of Paul's book?
Cheese and culture. It's not bad for what it tries to do, but dry, and sometimes glosses over or overemphasizes some aspects related to the actual making.
Good point, Frotte. Thanks, LB for your detailed answer.