Author Topic: Mont d'Or  (Read 1591 times)

Offline Dreedmba

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Mont d'Or
« on: August 18, 2021, 01:42:07 AM »
My primary reason for wanting to try this cheese make was to get the practice of developing the rind.  I enjoy smear ripened cheeses and like the almost immediate, relative to aging cheese, feedback cycle of 4-6 weeks you get from the short ripening time.
Objectives of this cheese
-create a moist runny gooey buttery cheese
-establish Geotrichum on day 2-4
-hold Geotrichum until day 5-7
-deacidify surface and knock back Geo with b-linen wash around day 7
- develop b-linen smear and maintain to allow breakdown of curd for next 21-35 days, depending on the breakdown of the body
-allow geo growth to develop last 4-5 days to dry off surface rind before cutting

With exception of the return of geo development to dry the rind, I hit my objectives.

I used a store bought homogenized milk, I wasn't concerned about milk quality as this was intended to be an exercise to develop the rind.
Recipe was Mont d'Or from New England Cheese Making website, although I blended the instructions for washing the rind between recipe and Paul Thomas's "Home-made Cheese" book but substituted b-linen instead of alcohol in the brine.

I followed the Brie pH targets from Deejay's pH, Floc, and press guide.
I added Geo and B-linens in the make and also as part of the wash. 2% brine/geo for first 2-3 days and then 8% brine/b-linen daily for rest of make stopping at day 18.

After make, molding, salting, and drying the ripening process was started.

I held cheese in plastic container which maintained 95% +/- humidity at 62-64 degrees Fahrenheit.  I washed with 2% brine/geo daily for 7 days.  Geo was established but not an overwhelming amount.  I then went to the cave at 55 degrees and inside of plastic container which maintained 95% +/- humidity washing and turning daily.  At day 18 I removed from container and stopped b-linen wash.  I flipped daily and set in open cave at 91% humidity for next 5 days until I cut at day 23.  Surface maintained a wet smear and never dried off or did Geo re-establish. 

Paste was softening and progressing right on target during the whole wash process. B-linen seemed to develop, what I initially thought was slow, but with the outcome I believe it was right on plan.  My only miss was that Geo did not re-establish at end to dry surface.  This could be that I needed to let it go a few more days and as you can see in pictures I had a small section of paste in the center that was still firm so a couple more days could have been tolerated.  pH at cut was 7.8 with little variation from center to edge. 

Overall once the cheese was cut, even with cheap store bought homogenized milk, it was very flavorful.  I hit almost all my targets and can't wait to make this cheese with good milk.  I believe, assuming I can duplicate it which is the next real test, that it will be an incredibly flavorful cheese. 

Offline mikekchar

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Re: Mont d'Or
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2021, 08:20:20 AM »
Looks awesome!  AC4U.

That final dry off is really tricky because the cheese is moist. If you dry it off too quickly, it might crack (which is not the end of the world, but not fantastic).

I tend to do this just slightly differently.  As soon as the b. linens starts to show up, it's straight into the normal fridge (6 C).  This slows things down and allows the ammonia to migrate to the center of the cheese.  In fact, with a low enough humidity, you can even get to a point where the center is creamy and the outside is fairly firm -- just because it's straddling the pH were the protein solubilises and the outside is slightly lower moisture than the inside.  Then as it ages, you can keep the rind pretty dry.  It's tricky, though.  Sometimes I get geo growing again and sometimes I don't.  For me, playing this kind of game is really important for doing a reblochon.

I also have a number of different strategies for bringing b. linens online.  Washing the top and bottom on alternate days is definitely the easiest (IMHO), but if I can get geo blooming well, then "washing every time geo blooms" works really well too.  Because you don't really get a good schmear, it gives you a different character to the rind (a bit thinner and more delicate).

Offline Dreedmba

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Re: Mont d'Or
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2021, 09:12:02 PM »
Thanks for the input.  You mention ammonia.  I get nervous when I start to smell ammonia, although I know it's part of the process I get concerned about it going too far.  I have had store bought brie that when I have gotten it home it smells of ammonia and it's not good.  How do you judge it's an appropriate development and how do you judge it has gone too far?  Maybe I am starting to answer my own question but as long as the paste is still firm and I know the cheese is still young, because different than store bought I know the age, is ammonia every going to be a problem?   

Offline bansidhe

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Re: Mont d'Or
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2021, 09:18:44 PM »
That looks amazing!  Wow.  AC4U!
Making cheese is easy, making a cheese is hard

Offline mikekchar

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Re: Mont d'Or
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2021, 01:35:34 AM »
Controlling that ammonia production is part of affinage.  Basically, the faster things are growing on the outside, the faster ammonia will be produced.  Ammonia soaks into the cheese, but it takes times.  So if things are growing like gangbusters on the rind, the ammonia will pool up just under the rind and you will get a runny paste there as well as a strong ammonia odor.

One of the things you want to do is to control the geotrichum growth on the rind.  This is why it's a bit of a tradeoff when you are making the cheese.  If you add some geotrichum to the milk, it will get an early start and control other molds for you.  On the other hand, it might just grow too fast.  I tend to have mixed feelings about this.  I've played with adding geotrichum directly to the milk or spraying it on my cheeses, but honestly I tend to prefer having it show up naturally (and I slightly prefer my wild source better than the variety that I bought).  It gets a slower start and therefore the cheese can mature a bit more before I have to really think about controlling geotrichum.

And again, b. linens also produces ammonia.  So you kind of want to time when that's all coming together.  In some ways, waiting longer is nice because you get some proteolysis happening in the cheese to produce flavour and paste texture before you start dumping ammonia in there.  That's one of the reasons I tend to prefer the "wash whenever something blooms" over the "wash alternating sides every day"  approach.  For a washed rind (not alpine rind), it's going to produce a subtly different cheese.

But, for instance, if geotrichum is going crazy, you may want to change your mind and wash early to get b. linens up as soon as you can and then lower the temp to 6 C.  Because otherwise in addition to the geo dumping ammonia, it will be producing a lot of geo-funk flavours.  I personally like my washed rinds to be simpler.  But I've found that if lower the temp before the b. linens shows up, then it takes too long to mature and doesn't really give you the b. linens characteristics.

And then, of course, the longer you grow b. linens, the more ammonia you will produce, which really limits the the lifespan of the cheese.   So there is a hard limit to the extent that you can age it (depending on how you approached the problem).

After trying it about a bazillion different ways (and making a *lot* of washed rinds that I didn't really enjoy), my "ideal" practice is:  24 hours or so to dry off the rind at room temps, 16 C and ~80% humidity until geo blooms or at least until it gets "greasy" (depending on the humidity) (up to a week), 13 C and 80-90% humidity washing every time something blooms, as soon as b. linens has coloured the rind move to 6 C and wash occasionally depending on the condition of the rind.  I try to aim it so that I get the colour of the rind and the condition of the paste to the right level right at the end of aging.

But it must be said that this is all really subjective and highly dependent upon your actual setup, climate, cheese styles, etc.  Also, lately I've been playing with the commercial FR22 b. linens culture and I *really* like it.  It's got a nice red colour (my wild one is *very* orange) and I find that it has a bit less bitterness than my wild variant.  However, for alpine style (or tomme style) rinds where I'm drying off the rind, I prefer my wild one.  It's got the most amazing flavour once the rind has dried off.

Having said all that, affinage is an art.  It just takes a lot of practice and experimentation to find the process that works for you.  I've been amazed at the difference in the final cheeses as well.  The exact same make with different affinage makes a completely different cheese.