Author Topic: How is Fromage Blanc traditionally made?  (Read 2807 times)

Offline JennyFox

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How is Fromage Blanc traditionally made?
« on: January 03, 2022, 05:24:58 AM »
Hi all,

Newbie cheese maker here. Can anyone answer how fromage blanc is traditionally made?

I've made a cottage cheese using store-bought milk and acidification (vinegar or lemon juice). Heating, adding acidic juice, cooling and draining curds.

I wanted to try my hand at fromage blanc, which I thought was different. I have starter culture which instructs to heat milk (I'm using raw from local dairy for this), add culture which contains rennet and sit for 12 hrs at 75°. Drain curds. The consistency was that of cottage, not the same as the silky yogurt consistency fromage blanc I see online.

After watching a couple videos, I saw a chef make fromage B. using cultured buttermilk. I thought that's odd since the buttermilk you buy in the store isn't actually buttermilk but some other product.

So, how is fromage blanc traditionally made? It can't always have been with processed store buttermilk unless this style of cheese is relatively new (last 60-100yrs).

Thank you

Offline mikekchar

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Re: How is Fromage Blanc traditionally made?
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2022, 03:00:05 AM »
It would probably be helpful to back up a bit and talk about "buttermilk".  Traditional buttermilk is the milk left over after you make butter.  There are 2 kinds of butter: cultured butter (also known as Normandy Butter or Irish Butter because that's where it was often made intentionally like that) and normal butter.  Butter is made by allowing the cream to rise in the milk.  You skim the cream off the top and then you make butter from the cream.  Before you had refrigeration, the milk would sit at room temperature and slowly sour due to the natural bacteria in it.  With cultured butter, you let the milk sour a lot before you made the butter.  With normal butter you wouldn't.  These days the cream is separated using a centrifuge or other separator and so the milk does not sour at all before the butter is made.  In the old days, though, the milk would have to sour at least a little bit before the cream would rise enough to make butter.

In the old days, the skimmed milk that was left over was called "butter milk".  Keep in mind that you let the cream rise, you may or may not let it sour a bit before skimming the cream, then you skim the cream and then the milk sits around for a while before you use it -- all without refrigeration.  So it sours to the point of being a kind of yogurt.  The bacteria is a room temperature yogurt (technically known as a "mesophilic" culture: "meso" means "medium" and "philic" means "loves", which means that it loves medium temperatures).  Mesophilic cultures in raw milk have some bacteria that produces a chemical called "diacetyl".  That's the same chemical that's used to make margarine taste like butter and your movie "hot buttered popcorn" taste like super butter.  It's also what makes "cultured butter" taste like butter on steroids. (If you've never had cultured butter, search it out -- you'll never want to eat normal butter again).  The long and the short of it is that the kind of yogurt that you get after you let "butter milk" sit around at room temperature tastes very buttery (it's what's left over from butter and it tastes buttery -- buttermilk).  Yogurt from mesophilic cultures (butter milk) tend to be less thick than warm temperature yogurts ("normal" yogurt -- also known as "thermophilic" yogurt: "Thermo" means "warm, "philic" means "loves.  "loves warm temperatures").  Butter milk is skimmed and so there is also not much fat which also makes it less thick.  So you get this thin, buttery yogurt that you can drink.

Of course, there is no reason why you need to drink skimmed "butter milk".  Full fat butter milk tastes even better.  So that's what you buy in the store.  They add a mesophilic culture to full fat milk and let it acidify until you get a kind of buttery drinking yogurt.  It's even better if you use half and half cream (18% fat).  This is known as "sour cream" and you've probably eaten it before :-)  It's even more better (grammar fail!) if you use full cream (36% fat) and that's known as creme fraiche.  They are all made using the exact same technique and are essentially the exact same thing with different fat content.

You are correct that fromage blanc is basically butter milk with drop of rennet in it.  I honestly don't recommend buying the "fromage blanc" starters with rennet in them.  I think they are an over priced rip off, though I understand why some producers sell them -- mainly because beginners demand it.  What you want is milk (skimmed or full fat, depending on your preference) and an "aromatic mesophilic culture".  "Aromatic" means that it produces that butter aroma/flavour.  Flora Danica is a good and relatively inexpensive one for that, but any aromatic mesophilic culture will do.  You can also buy live butter milk, sour cream or creme fraiche as a starter too.  Check the ingredients, though, because some of these are just milk, lactic acid and diacetyl rather than cultured live products.  Anyway, you add the recommended amount of starter culture (or about 1 tablespoon of buttermilk, etc per liter/quart of milk that you are using).  Then 1 drop of single strength liquid rennet.  Finally, I recommend 4 drops of calcium chloride.  The last ingredient may not be absolutely necessary for this recipe, but it's a good safety net to ensure that the rennet works and I haven't actually tested to see if it works without it (theoretically it probably will). (Edit: With raw milk you do *not* need calcium chloride, for technical reasons)

The problem with gritty fromage blanc is likely due to over acidification before draining.  Unfortunately you can't just leave it for a set period of time.  You have to watch it.  The idea is that you want to drain it when the curd *just* starts separating from the sides of the container and/or whey starts to pool on top of the curd.  As soon as it gets to that point, it's time to drain it.  If you wait too long, the curd will essentially seize when it hits the point where it would curdle due to acidity.  You are absolutely right to say that it becomes like cottage cheese because that's one of the secrets of making cottage cheese ;-) (that's a whole other conversation though -- good cottage cheese is an incredibly deep topic).  Because you are using raw milk, you also have bacteria from the milk so your milk is acidifying very quickly.  You really need to keep an eye on it.  I wouldn't be surprised if your fromage blanc is ready to drain in 5 hours or even less.

Sorry for the information overload!  This is one of those "very easy to make", but "very easy to make badly" cheeses :-)  I hope this gives you some insights on how to improve.

Offline JennyFox

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Re: How is Fromage Blanc traditionally made?
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2022, 05:40:10 PM »
Mikechar,

Thank you so so much! And, sorry for the delay in response.You not only cleared up a ton of misinformation I had but offered up an entire new world of things for me to learn. I had no idea there were different types of mesophilic cultures. I can't wait to start learning more about the different types of mesophiles that can be used for cheese and where to get them.

Also, thank you so much for the recipe and meso culture recommendation. I can't wait to try both!!

I highly suggest you write a book on this. You're extremely well spoken, simplify the information and have a ton of knowledge!

Offline Littlest Goat

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Re: How is Fromage Blanc traditionally made?
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2022, 02:19:41 PM »
I too, love the in-depth but not insanely technical info you have to offer.
I had always thought true buttermilk was the whey like liquid leftover when coagulating cream into butter. But I am  guessing it is whey.
 So what distinguishes fromage blanc from a soft goat cheese aka chevre. Is it just that it is goat milk?
 A few years back I got a lot of coaching on cottage cheese from Mikechar but had numerous flops. I usually put those in jars and called them fromage blanc. Then tragedy struck in the form of a mountain lion killing my small goat herd. Finally after a couple years I am back in milk. Working on 1st chevre in a while. So thank you for all the great info.

Offline mikekchar

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Re: How is Fromage Blanc traditionally made?
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2022, 10:53:50 PM »
Wow!  Sorry to hear about your herd :-(

As far as I know, it's exactly as you say, though.  The type of chevre is a goat's milk fromage blanc.  "Chevre" literally just means "goat" in french, so there are plenty of different styles of "chevre", but the one that's like fromage blanc is essentially fromage blanc :-)