Author Topic: Tomme recipe with pH markers  (Read 2789 times)

Offline Mornduk

  • Medium Cheese
  • ***
  • Location: Arkansas
  • Posts: 91
  • Cheeses: 19
  • Default personal text
Tomme recipe with pH markers
« on: March 27, 2022, 04:26:40 PM »
Apologies for the lack of make pictures but I didn't plan to post about this. MacGruff was looking for a successful recipe and I always try to keep notes. Luckily I had at least one picture from when I opened it a couple of months ago :)



I made this cheese with raw milk (mix of Guernsey, Jersey, and Holstein), and the Manchego form from cheesemaking.com. Opened it at 304 days of aging in the cave, brushed a couple of times until it developed a stable natural rind. The rind developed very quickly and did not go crazy, in the opened cheese the rind was thin, texture was firm, dry and brittle, taste strong. The weight before brining was 3442g, dropped to 2287g by the time I opened it.

Process
  • pH targets: start 6.8, rennet (pH drop >=0.1), whey pitch 6.4, brine 5.4, flocx3.5 45min
  • Milk: I used 6G Guernsey/Jersey/Holstein raw milk mix. I got 15% yield
  • Starter Culture: 0.6g MA4000, dissolve in 60ml non-chlorinated water, wait 5 min for it to rehydrate, mix and stir
  • Ripen: Heat the milk to ~90F. Check for pH drop and move on. It should take 15-30 mins.
  • Adds: 0.4g Lipase, dissolve 0.5g lipase in 50ml non-chlorinated water, let stand 20 mins, add to milk and stir. If your milk is not raw, add CaCl2. The solid food-grade one is way cheaper than the liquid one sold for cheese-making, just need to weight 1/3 or what the recipe calls for to water. So if you’re doing 6G of store bought milk, dissolve 2g solid CaCl2 in 60ml non-chlorinated water, stir in and let it rest for a minute before adding to milk. Lipase and CaCl2 should be added 10+ min after culture, 10+ mins before rennet
  • Rennet: Dissolve 4.6ml single strength in 50ml non-chlorinated water, whisk milk top-down vigorously for a minute to get that Jersey fat back in, then add dissolved rennet to milk slowly stirring constantly for a minute
  • Coagulation: Check flocculation after 10 mins, x3.5 flocculation, target is ~45 mins
  • Cutting Curd: Cut center, then 2" in parallel. Long side before short one. Let it rest 5 mins, then use harp or whisk to slowly cut the curds down to ~1cm 3/8" in another ~5 mins
  • Cook curd: Heat to ~100F over 30 min, not over 1 degree per minute. Keep stirring slowly and continuously
  • Maintain: Stir slowly in an 8 pattern until you hit pH 6.4, or 30 mins
  • Settle: Pitch (press under the whey) 5 mins to form solid single mass so it’s easy to drain whey and get the curds in the form
  • Press Under warm whey: 2 hours going from x0.5 to x1 cheese weight, flipping 3-4 times
  • Press outside of whey: 2-6 hours depending on temp and time you were pressing under whey... press until pH goes around 5.4. Start with ~1xcheese weight, go to x2
  • Salt: Brine 3.5h/pound (depending on form) at 18% salt by water weight (add 5g CaCl2 and 5ml white vinegar per gallon of water -or enough vinegar to lower pH to 5.2)
  • Air Dry: Leave in ripening box at room temp 6-12h flipping at least once
  • Age: 50-55F 80-85H 1 week flipping daily. Brush mold when it comes and let it form a natural rind. I did brush just a couple of times before the rind was stable enough to keep by itself for the rest of the year.

Offline paulabob

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: Texas
  • Posts: 139
  • Cheeses: 12
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2022, 05:29:16 PM »
Nice rind.  What kind of cheese cave do you use?

Offline Mornduk

  • Medium Cheese
  • ***
  • Location: Arkansas
  • Posts: 91
  • Cheeses: 19
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2022, 07:17:49 PM »
Upright freezer with a humidifier inside and temp/humidity controllers. I made extra shelves out of wood and eggcrate so I could fit more wheels on it since my family likes longer aged ones. When I started doing charcuterie I just kept an eye for cheap second hand ones without coiling in the shelves, and now I have several dedicated to charcuterie, cheese, dry aging, and bloomy rinds.

Offline MacGruff

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: Pittsburgh, PA
  • Posts: 401
  • Cheeses: 23
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2022, 11:24:24 AM »
Thanks Mornduk.

I printed this off and will look for an opportunity to make it!

Offline Bantams

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: PNW
  • Posts: 345
  • Cheeses: 28
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2022, 02:41:12 PM »
We've found our Tomme to be best at about 5 months. It just doesn't hold up for long aging.

Offline Aris

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: Philippines
  • Posts: 401
  • Cheeses: 28
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2022, 12:19:27 AM »
We've found our Tomme to be best at about 5 months. It just doesn't hold up for long aging.
How do you store it after aging? Tomme de Savoie for example is full of molds, has a good amount of moisture and where I'm from they vacuum pack it which makes it wet and nasty.

Offline Bantams

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: PNW
  • Posts: 345
  • Cheeses: 28
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2022, 02:33:22 PM »
We cut and wrap when it's ready and it's sold immediately. We use Polyflex paper.

Offline paulabob

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: Texas
  • Posts: 139
  • Cheeses: 12
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2022, 03:52:27 PM »
I think a Tomme de Savoie and a Tomme are significantly different cheeses.  I'm 10 days into a tomme de savoi right now, getting a nice sprinkling of white over a pinkish patina (have done two washes).  I made a smaller cheese (from 2 gallons) because I think these are supposed to be eaten around 2 months, and won't age much longer.  My regular tomme was good up until a year.

I bought all the fancier cultures/molds recommended for the Savoie, hoping it will help the rind significantly, since I tend to end up with unwanted molds in my cheese cave (which often drips from the ice tray and each naturally aged cheese must be boxed).

Anyways, when it's ripe I'll wrap in cheesepaper and move into the regular fridge.

Offline Aris

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: Philippines
  • Posts: 401
  • Cheeses: 28
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2022, 06:27:18 AM »
As I understand, Tomme de Savoie is in the "Tomme" category which is a semi hard cheese, usually with a natural rind. I will try making one using my own recipe and let natural molds grow on it.

Offline mikekchar

  • Old Cheese
  • *****
  • Location: Shizuoka, Japan
  • Posts: 1,015
  • Cheeses: 118
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2022, 01:00:32 PM »
There are several different tomme styles.  Tomme de Savoie is an Alpine tomme (from the Alps).  The other main tomme style that uses that name directly is the Pyranee tommes which are harder in general (and often made of sheep's milk).  In Italy there is also a "toma" style, which is sometimes similar to a Pyranee tomme, but can sometimes almost be like a grana.

"Tomme" is the technical term for the slab of curds that you remove from the vat.  A "tomme cheese" is any cheese which is essentially just the tomme that you drain with minimal pressure.  Because the tomme is just a single slab of curds, you normally "pitch" the curds.  This means that when you've almost hit your pH targets, you let the curds fall to the bottom of the vat and let it form into a slab under its own weight.  So normally there is a period of time where it's just draining in the vat.  Then you remove it from the vat, let it drain with just enough weight to close it.  This is why tomme cheeses often have mechanical holes.  Most tomme cheeses have a natural mold or brushed rind.

Because it's such a vast style, I haven't really been able to study it in a lot of detail -- only a few specific substyles.  My impression is that most tomme styles have a very high pH target at draining (often in the 6.3-6.4 range).  They have a fairly long drain time to get down to a pH of about 5.3 before salting (though I think some styles may go lower... maybe?)  They are tricky to do well because very subtle changes can produce outsized differences in results.  I personally think there is also a lot of overlap in technique with many of the other Alpine styles in the North, or grana styles in Italy, but the result is quite different.

I think generally the main things to consider are: 1) high pH at drain, 2) pitching the curds for a good period of time and letting it drain in the vat 3) minimal weight while draining/pressing 4) appropriate rind treatment.

Rind treatment on a tomme is an artform, IMHO.  You want to do as little as possible while at the same time effectively steering it in the right direction.  It takes a lot of practice/experience to do well.  Purchasing rind preparation yeasts and/or something like PLA or Mycodore is completely reasonable if you've never done this stuff before.  You can also build up the natural flora in your cave, but my experience is that it takes 2-3 cheeses in succession to really get it going (after that, you really can basically do nothing).

My experience has been that Bantams is right (of which there is no doubt ;-) ).  5 months seems to be the magic spot for a tomme.  Before that and it doesn't develop that distinctive tomme character.  Much beyond that and it also loses it.  I've done *many* tommes to the 3 month mark when I was learning how to do natural rinds and the cheeses were always good, but lacked the tomme character.  Once it gets to 5 months, though, it's pretty surprising how different it can be.

Aris, I think you will really enjoy doing this style.

Offline Aris

  • Mature Cheese
  • ****
  • Location: Philippines
  • Posts: 401
  • Cheeses: 28
  • Default personal text
Re: Tomme recipe with pH markers
« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2022, 11:58:47 PM »
Thanks for the details Mike. I plan to use water buffalo milk because it is cheap, has a lot of solids and amazing flavor too. 10 liters of water buffalo milk will probably yield almost 2 kg which is a good size for a Tomme. With cow's milk, I have to use 17 liters to match the water buffalo milk's yield. I already have a diy tomme mold made from a modified 7 in diameter food container which cost less than 1 usd. I will do a high pH one probably in the 5.4-5.6 range. I like my cheeses with some sweetness and just a little tang. It will be unpressed like most of my semi hard cheeses, even my grana style cheese is just hand pressed to give it a good shape then no pressing involved while draining and acidifying. Also no curd washing because from experience, it tends to make the cheese actually more sour and hold more moisture.