Author Topic: curious about pre-industrial aging methods and caves  (Read 1107 times)

Offline eric1

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curious about pre-industrial aging methods and caves
« on: January 24, 2023, 08:50:49 PM »
I'm generally interested in old-fashioned and low-tech ways of doing things, and I'm curious what I can learn about how people aged cheese before electricity and in circumstances where concrete wasn't available or affordable.

Where else did people age their cheeses before electricity other than in natural caves?

I know constant ground temperature varies by location, and aged cheeses seem to be traditional even in fairly warm climates like that of Sicily.  Even natural caves in such warmer locations would have been significantly warmer than 50-55 degrees, right?  Were cheeses just aged at warmer temperatures in such places?  Were particular styles of cheese made in these places that were better suited to aging at higher temperatures?

What about the Netherlands?  I can't imagine there were hardly any caves in flat, low-lying places like the Netherlands.  How/where would cheeses have been aged in the Netherlands before artificial refrigeration?  Where else were cheeses aged when natural caves weren't available? 

My understanding is that traditional Alpine mountain cheeses were at least sometimes (if not regularly) aged all summer long in the cellars of the huts where the cheeses were made.  Is that possibly correct?  I guess even summertime temperatures in the cellars of mountain huts were cool enough, but I'd guess (maybe incorrectly) that they would get up into the 60s, especially not being fully below grade and not being well insulated or carefully sealed.

What about using ice?  I've heard about ice being cut from lakes in the winter and being stored in buildings and insulated with sawdust.  And old-fashioned ice boxes were kept cold with ice before refrigeration.  Was ice ever used to keep "caves" moderately cool?

And how were cheeses protected from pests in natural caves and/or cellars?  With modern building materials I can imagine building "caves" that rodents physically wouldn't be able to get into, but I can't imagine how rodents could have been kept out of natural caves in the past.  Why weren't rodents a major problem?  Assuming they had to be dealt with somehow, how were they managed?

If anyone knows the answers to any of these questions or can recommend further reading that would address these sorts of questions, I'd be interested in whatever you know.  Thanks!

Offline mikekchar

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Re: curious about pre-industrial aging methods and caves
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2023, 12:34:59 AM »
I don't know for sure.  I've been meaning to do more research on this topic.   There is at least one very old creamery in Italy that built a brick "cave" with a stream that cools it (basically the water hits the bricks and cools it down).  In Mexico, real queso Cotija is aged mostly in open huts in the mountains during the rainy season.  The average temperature is 18 C.  Also, I've been told that it was common (and *still* done by some producers) to age alpine cheeses at 21 C.  In fact, someone told me that Parmesan *should* be aged over 20 C.  There are descriptions of cheese making from Roman times where they were aging cheeses in the open air under trees for shade -- so quite a high temperature.  They would stack the cheeses quite close to get higher humidity.

In hot countries like Greece, they used to age cheese in brine barrels and submerge them in the sea to stay at a constant temperature.  However, in most of Europe, it turns out that there are a *lot* of volcanic caves.  Apparently when the mountains in that region were first being formed, it was quite a volcanic area.  So there are magma tubes that are left over.  Most of the famous cheeses in Europe coincide with those volcanic caves.  The volcanism has long since disappeared and now those caves are a constant 12 C, for the most part.  In other areas, like Eastern Europe, the vast majority of traditional cheeses were fresh cheeses.  In Asia quite a lot of cheeses were low fat and *very* dry.

Basically, my understanding is that the cheeses that survived and are popular now are mostly cool aged cheeses because they are simply better :-)  Cheese in the ancient world was a way of saving milk from spoiling.  The quality would have varied *wildly*.  If you search the forum here, there are some sections that have old cheese making books (some 150 years old).  I've read some of them.  They are *terrible*.  The authors clearly had *no idea* how to make good cheese :-)  That's not to say that nobody did.  I'm sure there was amazing cheese even in ancient times.  It's just that it wasn't nearly as common as it is now.

Having said that, I've aged several cheeses at the 20 C mark and as long as you are careful about style (low moisture is good), it can make very good cheese.  I've even done some bloomy rinds started for a week at 20 C and then into the fridge at about 6 C for another 5 weeks and they were *very* good.  Aging cheese, especially with natural rinds, is a complex and deep topic.  The general advice of 13 C is a good starting place, but there is a lot more to it than that.