Author Topic: blending cultures myself  (Read 3098 times)

Offline borisb2

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blending cultures myself
« on: March 31, 2023, 02:46:21 AM »
Hi there,

general question: here in NZ the supply of cultures for chesemaking is somewhat limited. I did find a good online store that provides me with the usual mesophilic and thermophilic (single-) cultures which I can then blend myself.

But now I am wondering how much different that would be comparing to a pre-blended culture (like LHT) ? How different in quality and flavor can similar cultures be anyway?

Thanks

Offline mikekchar

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2023, 12:58:52 PM »
Culture of the same sub-species are often *very* different in flavor and performance characteristics.  You can geek out about choosing the "perfect" cultures for your cheese, but honestly I tend to work with certain ones each time.

Blending of cultures is done for a variety of different reasons.  Sometimes it's convenience.  Frequently people will buy blends of ST and LH just because if you want LH, you almost certainly want ST (and probably don't care very much which ST it is).  But you can buy LH individually as an adjunct in case you want to do something strange (like add it to a mesophilic culture when doing an adjunct cheddar, for example).  Then you can buy LB as well and then you can go with a bulgaricus thermophilic or helveticus thermophilic depending on your mood.  Or you can just buy blends.

There are particular blends that are based on single source raw milk.  If I remember correctly MA4XXX is one of those and there is another one that escapes me at the moment.  Personally I tend to use a "buttermilk" blend with LL, LC, LD and MSC and then mix that with a bulgaricus thermophilic blend, but that's because I do mother cultures and culture the mesophilic and thermophilic separately.  Unless you are trying for something really specific, I'm not sure there is much point in keeping separate versions of each culture.  Some people feel that there are cheeses like cheddar and gouda that benefit from staying away from gas producers so they'll go with LL and LC only.  More and more, though, I feel like I enjoy going with a full "farmhouse" blend on virtually every cheese I make.  It's a bit closer to what you'd be doing with raw milk.

Doesn't really answer the question directly, but basically my preference has been not to worry about it too much.  I'll make mother cultures of things I like and don't swap them out too much.  But it's absolutely true that you lose out on variation that way.

Offline borisb2

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2023, 08:15:00 PM »
Thanks a lot for your reply.

When blending cultures, how do I know when to have the right ratio and amount of cultures for a cheese - given I am not following a recipe in that case. Are there any rule of thumbs for mesophilic / thermophilic cultures per Liter of milk? But I guess thats also depending on what kind of cheese I am aiming (crumbling or soft etc)?

I guess putting too much cultures in the milk ends up over acidifying the milk again?

Offline mikekchar

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2023, 02:12:42 AM »
I usually make mother cultures.  I'll make one with my mesophilic and one with my thermophilic and then blend those.  Typically you want between 1.2% and 1.5% of the total weight of the milk in culture.  I tend to go towards the high end, so 15 grams of yogurt to 1 liter of milk.  How much to blend depends on how active you think it's going to be.  If I'm doing something at 30 C, then the thermophilic is not going to be very active, so it will most play a role while the cheese is aging and won't pull down the pH very much.  Similarly, you will often do alpines and start them at 35 C which will mostly get mesophilic, but then you raise the temp all the way up to 50 C (or higher) which will feature only the thermophilic.  In those cases I'll put quite a bit of the other one in (often up to 7 grams per liter).  However, you have to be careful because some of these cultures have a really wide range.  The theromophilic I often use will happily chew away at lactose down at 25 C, so I need to add much less of it if I want it to have a subdued effect.

It's really a case of trial and error.  Having good control of your process so you understand what your acidification curve actually is will help a lot.  Basically, though, my approach is to make a lot of cheese and not worry if some of it isn't very good :-)

Offline borisb2

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2023, 02:06:39 AM »
on that topic one last question:

when mixing cultures and potentially adding too much to the milk (just as a "worst case scenario"): I assume I will notice that then in a faster acidification, setting curd time etc.?

Is there anything I can do to counter-balance that in that case, like quicker draining / salting etc.? Or is it more like: too much culture eventually means, even if I hit the ph-targets for the given cheese it still will overshoot acidity as there is too much culture left in the curd which still will lower pH during aging?

Thanks again

Offline mikekchar

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2023, 05:43:54 AM »
This is likely *way* more information than you want to know. Executive summary:  Yes, more culture will make it acidify more quickly.  Yes, it will affect the cheese.  Yes, you can work with it, but it requires a fair amount of experience and attention to detail.  What follows is the mental model I use every time I make cheese.  It's kind of complicated, but I find it really helpful.  I hope you will too.

The speed of acidification depends on: 1) the number of cells per ml of milk (more is faster), 2) the temperature (higher is faster) 3) the amount of food available (but in the period we're talking about there is always more than enough food).  If you salt the milk, or something like that it can slow down the culture too, but let's not get into that.

So, yes, more culture will generally mean faster acidification.  So you can lower the temperature to compensate... but... that's also going to affect how the curds will curdle and drain.  So it's actually quite complicated.

My best cheese making piece of advice is to think about the time where you drain the whey from the curds (or take the curds out of the whey) as a target point.  Your goal is to hit a specific pH (acidity) and a specific curd structure (size, moisture level).  The acidity is based on the amount of culture, its health and the temperature.  So while you are tracking that, you want to adjust how you are treating the curds.

I always do a flocculation test with my makes (float a milk cap/bottle cap in the milk and time how long it takes before you can't spin it any more -- that's the "flocculation time").  The total coagulation time should be a multiple of the "flocculation time".  So if your recipe says you have a multiplier of 3.0 and you had a flocculation time of 12 minutes, then the total coagulation time (before you cut the curds) should be 36 minutes.

You should have an idea of what your goal flocculation time is.  As long as you are using the same milk you normally use, you are using the same amount of rennet and you hit your temperature correctly, the speed of flocculation will be related to the speed that the milk is acidifying.  You can use this as a kind of poor person's pH meter.  If you are flocculating faster than you expect, it means you added too much culture.  If it's slower, then you added too little culture.  You should also check just before you cut the curds to make sure that the firmness is what you expect.

I won't write my normal rant about "clean break" -- just note that the desired firmness of the curd is different for every single type of cheese and should be related to the flocculation multiplier.  A multiplier of 2.0 will be "sloppier" than 3.0.  4.0 will be much more firm than 3.0.  You get the idea.  Try to find recipes where they tell you the flocculation goal and the desired multiplier rather than the total coagulation time, although you can often figure it out yourself if you have experience.  The drier the cheese, the lower the multiplier will be (and the more "sloppy" you want the break).  You can look at the amount of rennet (often practically random in many recipes, unfortunately), the temperature and the amount of culture added and guess the flocculation target.  Then you take the total coagulation time and divide by that to calculate the multiplier.  I hope that makes sense... As you practice making cheese, you'll be adjusting your own recipes, so don't worry about it.  Usually it takes me at least 5 times to make a good version of a new style of cheese for me.  If you have that kind of expectation, you won't worry so much about "getting it right" the first time.

Anyway...  If you realise you are going too fast or too slow (either by the flocculation and coagulation time, or by measuring the pH directly), you can simply cut the curds bigger or smaller.  The smaller you cut the curds, the faster they will drain.  So if you are acidifying faster than you want, cut the curds smaller so that you end up at the right consistency when you have to drain (due to reaching your pH target).  If you are going slower, then cut the curds larger.  Similarly, if you are acidifying very slowly, you can stir every minute or so instead of consistently.  This helps you hit your target.

Another side note:  If you are using poor quality milk (for instance homogenized milk) and you expect the curds to fracture a lot, add less culture so that it acidifies more slowly.  This gives you a longer coagulation time, and you can take your time stirring so that the curds have more time to get stronger before you have to drain due to pH.

Of course, if you don't have a pH meter, you won't know when to drain via pH (because, honestly the whey at pH 6.3 tastes *exactly* like the whey at pH 6.0, unless you are some super tasting mutant).  So keeping track of how the acidification is going and adjusting the way you treat your curds is the only way to know when you are done.  Most recipes give you a stir time, but that's completely unreliable because your cheese is going to be totally different than the author's.  You really need to go until the curds are at the consistency you want and hope that they are at the pH that you want.

Once you drain the curds and get them in the mold, you can see how easily the curds come together (the easier they hold together, the higher the pH -- less acidic).  However, you can't really easily know this before you drain (well, taking some curds and doing a squeeze test can help, but I find it quite difficult).  Again, it's important to take good notes and keep an attitude that you're going to figure out your process over a series of makes rather than nailing it on the first go.

The cheese will continue to acidify relatively quickly until you salt it.  The amount of culture you added doesn't really make much difference at this point other than it will acidify more quickly as you are pressing it (and before you salt it).  You just have to do all the steps more quickly, but generally you have more than enough time anyway.  At worst, turn on the air conditioning to slow things down.  The opposite is even easier to deal with because the only downside is that it takes longer to drain and acidify (which is a PITA if you are making a cheddar or pasta filata cheese, but doesn't really affect anything other than time).

After you salt it, the culture is still alive and it does slowly acidify the cheese, but there are lots of processes that tend to balance out the acidity unless you have excess whey (i.e. the cheese didn't drain properly, often because you overpressed it early).

As you can see, cheese making is a deep subject, but as complicated as all that probably seems, it's really not that bad once you get the hang of it.

Offline borisb2

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2023, 11:02:53 PM »
thats awesome Mike .. thanks for all your information - and no, its not more information than I want to know :)

I have to look for that flocculation times chart.. so far I didnt find too many recipes that deal with times and mulitpliers - but I just started looking.

Also, watching this from Gianaclis Caldwell really opens my eyes regarding acid development in the Vat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Va5d5ALvdo

one naive question remains about amount of cultures: does more culture potentially means more flavor in the final cheese? so are we always aiming to use as much culture as possible - while monitoring the pH closely and potentially work "faster" in the Vat?

Thanks again

Offline mikekchar

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2023, 01:05:00 AM »
Consider that "culture" is just another word for "bacteria".  We add x million cells of bacteria into our milk.  They eat the sugar and produce acid.  They also reproduce (very, very quickly).  When you add the culture (bacteria) to your milk, it just breeds up to the optimal density of cells and continues to chug away. The reason that more culture means faster acidity is because you have more cells.  But, if you wait X hours, you are at optimal density anyway.  The end result is always the same.  It's just the amount of time it takes to get there.

I think people are also confused about "enzymes" from bacteria.  Enzymes are just chemicals that break apart other chemicals.  These are necessary for the the way cells grow -- how they process food, how they build cell walls, etc.  They aren't really oozing out enzymes.  It's more that if you have bacterial cells, they contain enzymes.  Over time the cells die, break down and release those enzymes.  The enzymes will break down proteins and fats around where they are.  You can think of an enzyme as a kind of key for a lock.  Each enzyme can unlock a specific link in the chain of a protein and fat.  This leaves a different length/shape chain.  Each one of those smaller chains has a different flavour.

As the cheese ages, the bacterial (and other) cells break down, releasing enzymes.  The enzymes break apart the proteins and fats into smaller pieces (all shaped depending on the enzyme that broke them up) and flavor grows.  So if you have no cells, you will have no (or few) enzymes, and little change in the flavor of the cheese.  Keep in mind that rennet itself is an enzyme (chymosin) and it breaks down casein.  Molds and yeasts will also invade your cheese. They will carry other enzymes that will break down your proteins and fats in other ways.  The flavors *will* develop in the cheese as it ages.  However, the specific flavor that develops will be different because the enzymes are different.

So, yes, a cheese with lots of lactic acid bacteria in it is likely to have a stronger flavor than a cheese with no lactic acid bacteria in it.  However, there is also a concept that enough is enough.  If you have enough lactic acid bacteria to acidify your milk, you have enough to produce enough enzymes to produce flavor as it ages.  Also keep in mind that even though the bacterial action slows down a lot when you add salt, as long as there is lactose (milk sugar) in your cheese, your lactic acid bacteria is going to continue to grow, breed and consume that sugar.  This is why it's important to realise that cheeses with a lot of whey left in them can "referment" and get very sour.

That means that in a more practical way, no, once you have enough bacteria to make cheese, you will have enough bacteria to develop flavour.  It will just keep growing over time until you run out of lactose.  Even if you wanted to, you couldn't mute the flavor by adding less culture (unless you added none).

Offline borisb2

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2023, 02:59:55 AM »
thats a great explanation and answers a lot of questions.

Thanks again! .. on to a new batch :)



Online Aris

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2023, 05:45:46 AM »
borisb2

Temperature and bacteria species and strains also matter and those will play a big role in the flavor of your cheese. Its not just the amount of culture/bacteria. From experience, slower acidification rate is better because the bacteria has more time to produce flavor compounds so it is not just bacteria enzymes responsible for flavor. I use Flora Danica and a 10 strain meso and thermo danish yogurt which both contains Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis biovar diacetylactis and Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. cremoris. Those 2 bacteria are known to produce diacetyl (buttery flavor) and to maximize diacetyl production, I inoculate at cooler temperatures (78-84 f). I also use L. Helveticus (LH 100) which is known for giving cheese a nutty flavor, has the ability to reduce bitterness and aid in the formation of tyrosine crystals. There is also a different strain of L. Helveticus (FLAV 54) that makes the cheese more sweeter than the other strain. Having an idea what temperatures these bacteria prefer, you can utilize them in any kinds of cheese and add complexity. You can make a cheese like Parmesan or Gruyere that usually use thermophilic culture and inoculate it with mesophilic culture to benefit from the flavors it produce. I recently made a Mozzarella which typically use thermophilic culture and it was extra buttery because I used a mesophilic culture that has bacteria that produce diacetyl.

Offline borisb2

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Re: blending cultures myself
« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2023, 06:45:50 AM »
Thanks Aris. I guess its also a matter of try and error and expriment with the cultures ..which wouldnt be an issue if my small wine fridge wouldnt fill up so quickly - and I still have to wait for the aging