Author Topic: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind  (Read 645 times)

Offline borisb2

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how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« on: October 05, 2023, 03:59:37 AM »
different books/websites recommend very different techniques for smear ripening - and as a new starter it leaves me a bit puzzled. One book is saying I should rub the brine/b-linen not too gentle to roughen up the surface for new growth, others are saying to just sprinkle some drops from the brine on the surface and gently massage it in with the hands. Some letting the washed cheese out of the cave to dry, others are putting it straight back (still damp/wet) into the cave/fridge.

I am doing raclette and gruyere at the moment (and did a semi soft) and with all my attempts I have the feeling I am either washing too often, too hard or both. At some point it looks like the initial b-linen surface gets washed away and converts to a natural yellow, hard rind - new washing then just makes the rind wet again but doesnt change its surface anymore (just happend on the gruyere) .. taste might be still fine, but no rosey color whatsoever

Any pointers what to look out for when smear ripening semi-hard cheese? Thanks a lot

Offline Aris

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2023, 07:22:41 AM »
What works for me is I wet the cheese with plain 3% brine then rub the brine all over the cheese using my bare hands and put it back in the ripening box while wet. My brine is stored inside a squeeze bottle so it doesn't get contaminated. I think humidity of over 85% is important. Other affineurs age their washed rind smear ripened cheese at almost 100% humidity. My technique is similar to the video below.
https://youtu.be/mk7dKv69nrc?t=2078

Offline mikekchar

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2023, 07:37:16 AM »
It's a bit confusing, but I think the easiest way to look at it is there there are potentially 2 things you want to accomplish: 1) get b. linens to grow 2) create a thick, flexible rind.  These are 2 separate things and for some cheeses, you don't always want to do the second one.

B. linens is a bacteria.  It likes salt (and I've heard it requires some salt to grow).  It likes humidity.  It requires a high pH (usually above 5.8, but some varieties start at 5.5 and others all the way up to 6.0).  That last bit is really the most important.  B. linens will never grow to any degree below that pH.  This means that you have to grow something *else* on the rind until the pH rises high enough for b. linens to get started.  Normally most people grow geotrichum in the interim, but there are actually a number of different yeasts or molds that will do the trick as well.

You can easily just grow geotrichum on the rind for a few weeks, wash it off with brine and then wait for the b. linens to grow.  That's the easiest way to get b. linens growing, IMHO.  You don't have to wipe that hard -- just hard enough to take the geotrichum off :-)  This is not always the way you want to do it, though.

One of the reasons for getting a schmear going on a cheese is because you want to seal it up and get a flexible rind for when you are growing eyes.  For cheeses with eyes that traditionally have a b. linens rind, you're actually preparing the rind for the warm phase.  You want a nice thick rind that is flexible so that when it expands, it doesn't crack.  To do this, you wash with a brush or cloth with round motions, bringing up a cheese paste.  Then you spread it around.  You keep doing that every other day (normally you do one side one day and the other side the other day).  You just keep bringing up that paste and spreading it evenly around, doing each side every other day until you have the thickness that you want.  Then you stop.  Normally when you do this, you end up with a lot of moisture on the rind, you have a lot of available food (because the paste is full of easily accessible lactate) and so yeasts grow in it quickly.  That brings the pH up and you end up getting b. linens growing very quickly.  You usually have this thick, gummy, orange or red paste that you are brushing around the rind eventually. Then you stop washing it and let it dry nicely (often coinciding with the warm phase).  It gives you a nice thick, flexible rind that doesn't crack when the cheese expands.

Another reason for getting a schmear going is to stop the cheese from being able to grow blue mold.  As you wash each side every day, you are disrupting the mold growing on it and flattening everything out.  Blue doesn't really like that.  Eventually b. linens grows and it will *always* out compete blue (and pretty much everything else).  You end up with a thick rind of b. linens that nothing else will grow on and nothing can penetrate.  It makes it easy to age.  This is the end game of a lot of alpine cheeses.  I have heard that even dutch cheeses used to do that regularly 1-200 years ago (but had much thinner rinds).

Of course, the b. linens will have quite an impact on the flavor of the cheese -- especially in the rind.  My experience has been that if I'm doing a real schmear, I need to be careful to keep the humidity way down after I achieve the schmear I'm looking for, or else the entire cheese can get caught up in the b. linens.  However, I make *very* small cheeses (5-600 grams each).  I don't think you have to worry quite as much with a large cheese.

I like to make reblochon and some other cheeses with a non-schmear approach -- just grow geotrichum, wash it off once at the 3-4 week mark, keep the humidity up and wait for b. linens to show up.  This makes a very thin rind, which suits my small cheeses.  Some producers will do a kind of hybrid approach where they will scuff up the rind with salt in the early stages.  IMHO this is really about fine tuning the thickness and character of your rind.  I wouldn't bother doing anything fancy until you get the basics down.

Hope that helps!

Offline Aris

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2023, 09:59:18 AM »
Mike,
I actually use your method nowadays when it comes to washed rind smear ripened cheeses. Thanks a lot for that. I just let G. Candidum cover the cheese and just wash once with plain 2-3% brine. That is pretty much all I need to get an even coating of B. linens on the rind. Although my Goat Toma was contaminated with blue mold and required 3 washing to get the blue mold under control. It seems G. Candidum is now the only one that is left which is a good thing. I also wrap mine in parchment paper, paper towels and aluminum foil. The B. linens still develop nicely while the cheese is wrapped. You are right about the yeast and other molds. Blue cheese for example can easily be infected with B. linens if it gets wet. I've also made washed rind cheese where I relied on wild yeast to get B. linens growing. I absolutely agree with B. linens having quite an impact on the flavor of the cheese even on a 1.5-2 kg cheese! That is why in my next Alpine cheese, I will limit the growth of B. linens and dry it off once it is established. Too much B. linens can sometimes dominate the flavor of the milk and starter/adjunct culture. Although I had a few Alpine style cheese that had a baked potato flavor from the thick schmier which was nice. It is fascinating that Gouda was so different back then. I didn't know it was a washed rind. I recently learned that Cheddar in the past was natural rind or the rind was larded. They didn't use cloth. Hafod cheddar nowadays is just larded. The link below is a screenshot of a facebook post that talked about Hafod cheddar and cheddar not using cloth.
https://i.imgur.com/3EoEFIU.jpg

Offline borisb2

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2023, 11:08:37 AM »
Thanks guys, very valuable tips as usual here.

Aris, regarding your YT-link I assume you come from germany?

Offline Aris

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2023, 02:09:05 PM »
Boris,
No, I just like researching cheese on youtube. I was curious about German/Swiss cheeses so I searched "Käse" on youtube and I found that video. I am actually filipino, chinese and spanish.

Offline borisb2

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2023, 12:57:12 AM »
So to recap:

am I assuming right then: when starting to wash too early (a few days after salting/drying) I am preventing geo to grow enough and thus preventing pH to rise enough on the surface to eventually get my beloved b-linen?

On one alpine I waited longer, did get good geo growth - but by that time the rind was already hardening quite a bit.. have to admit that this wheel was sitting exposed in the wine fridge too long I guess (too much air movement)

Looks like its all a very fine balance .. oh well

Offline Aris

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2023, 04:38:23 AM »
Yes. Geo and other molds doesn't grow if the surface of the cheese is wet. Once you have B. linens established. Geo will grow back when you reduce washing frequency or stop washing which is a good thing. Humidity has to be 85%. If the humidity is constantly too high, B. linens will be thick and sticky which will prevent Geo growth and can negatively affect the flavor of the cheese. If humidity is too low, the cheese can crack and lose a lot of moisture especially if you age it for several months resulting in a dry cheese with a thick rind. It is definitely a very fine balance.

Offline borisb2

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2023, 01:20:55 AM »
What works for me is I wet the cheese with plain 3% brine then rub the brine all over the cheese using my bare hands and put it back in the ripening box while wet. My brine is stored inside a squeeze bottle so it doesn't get contaminated. I think humidity of over 85% is important. Other affineurs age their washed rind smear ripened cheese at almost 100% humidity. My technique is similar to the video below.
https://youtu.be/mk7dKv69nrc?t=2078

By the way, I had a look at your youtube link (in german). I was wondering, that creamery is pasteurizing their raw milk for their semi hard cheese (aged then for 3-4 weeks) .. I never asked myself: is freshly pasteurized raw milk still superior in terms of expected cheese flavors (and remaining cultures?) than buying good pasteurized milk from the local store? (assuming non homogenized of course) .. or is that then essentially the same - namely pasteurized milk ?

Here in NZ we have several (small) companies that sell pasteurized, non homogenized milk, claiming it is as close as you can get to fresh milk from the farm .. (buying raw milk is highly regulated here in NZ) ..

Or in other words, when I buy raw milk and then pasteurize it myself, am I ending up essentially with the same "product for cheesemaking" as buying pasteurized milk in the first place?

Offline Aris

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Re: how hard should I (not) smear when smear ripening the rind
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2023, 08:58:32 AM »
Flavor of the milk/cheese will still depend on the diet of the animals from what I've read. I think heat treatment also affects flavor. I buy fresh raw milk from the farm and pasteurize/thermize it at home for safety and consistency. I also get raw milk cheaply. Store bought pasteurized water buffalo milk for example is almost 3x the price of raw milk. Raw milk is still superior especially when using natural starter (e.g. clabber and natural whey starter) in terms of flavor but freshly pasteurized raw milk is not that bad. With freshly pasteurized water buffalo's milk and cow's milk, I don't use calcium chloride and with freshly pasteurized goat's milk, I only use half dose. I guess the flavor of the milk/cheese will be very close or identical whether it was pasteurized by you or bought pasteurized if the diet of the animals are the same or similar and you use commercial starter culture. Imho even if you use high quality grass fed raw milk, the pasteurization will likely remove the complex flavors of the milk that can affect the cheese. An exceptional cheese like Comte for example use high quality grass/hay fed raw milk and natural whey starter (wild natural starter) and its flavor can never be replicated using store bought milk and commercial culture. Its flavor comes from the special milk, terroir and wild microbes.