Author Topic: Jumping into charcuterie...  (Read 2620 times)

mtncheesemaker

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Jumping into charcuterie...
« on: July 31, 2011, 10:22:01 PM »
On the spur of the moment, a friend and I decided to cure meat and make sausages from her hogs that are going to be butchered this week. We are scrambling to make a plan.
One thing we both want to do, is to dry age (I think) a couple of hams in the style of "country ham", serrano or prosciutto. Does anyone here have experience with this process? We have access to a large cooler for aging.
I'm wondering if any of you could direct me to a good resource for information on how to proceed.
My friend is adamant that we use no nitrates in anything. (I've tried, I've tried.)
Thanks to any of you experts out there. (I've been drooling over all of your products for a long time now!)
Pam

iratherfly

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2011, 10:45:15 PM »
I have a friend who buys share in acorn-fed pigs in upstate NY. He then cures their hinds for 18 months, excellent prosciutto. Personally I dry cure the loins and make a sausage. It's a modified recipe based on Jacques Pepin. Here is a link to a post I made a while back here. Was a popular thread. DJ Debi is really big on meat curing:  http://cheeseforum.org/forum/index.php/topic,2834.0.html.  Here is someone else who is doing it online: http://thepauperedchef.com/2008/11/saucisson-of-pork-tenderloin.html .  There is also the site: http://forum.sausagemaking.org/ and the very famous book: http://www.amazon.com/Charcuterie-Craft-Salting-Smoking-Curing/dp/0393058298.  If this is urgent, start by ordering some Morton TenderQuick salt and Prague Powder so that you have them by the time you decide what to do.

A word of advice - do not age them at the same cave as the cheese; they cross-contaminate each other quite badly.

mtncheesemaker

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2011, 08:16:20 PM »
Thanks, Yoav.
There is a lot of info out there (maybe too much!); I am trying to narrow down what I'm going to do.
The one thing I really want to do right is a dry salted ham. The other is a "head cheese" kind of loaf/terrine.
I'm not going to let these anywhere near the cheeses.
Thanks,
Pam

reg

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2011, 04:17:58 PM »
Hi Pam. This answer/info is a little late but if it were me I would not be using just salt alone as it is not enough to keep the bad bacteria in check. What you need is cure #2 which contains both nitrate and nitrite. The amounts required are 200 ppm for the curing you are proposing to do. You also require an area for aging that can support temps of 50-55 degress with a constant humidity of 70% plus for the time needed to cure which could be up to one year.

Without having either of the above I'm not sure I would be going forward with what is a very challenging task. I could go on forever about the misinformation out there regarding the use of nitrates/nitrites but I have done it so many times in the past five years I'm worn out with the discussion.

It is my hope that you and your friend study the subject before jumping in with both feet.

Reg

reg

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #4 on: August 07, 2011, 04:30:00 PM »
Pam, check out the info posted on Nov 7/10 re curing pork tenders. All the proper formulas are included in that thread

Good luck

Reg

Grendal

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2011, 04:47:25 PM »
This answer/info is a little late but if it were me I would not be using just salt alone as it is not enough to keep the bad bacteria in check.


Pardon my jumping in. In Italy most prosciutto is cured only using salt and seasoning. Long ago they were salt cured and in clay jars up in the caves.  There is other factors for making prosciutto. You need a constant temprature, and a constant humidity as well. Long ago prosciutto was not allowed to be imported due to food safety concerns. It's not cooked, it's just cured with salt and seasoning. Now adays, the salt is applied heavily, it's hung in a warehouse that's constantly temprature controlled, along with the humidity. You can achieve this same effect at home believe it or not. It's not going to be cheap though, and you can get maybe 1-2 legs done, possibly 4 depending on the size.

First you need that meat curing chamber. When I'm not making olives, I'm working on my own things. Curing meats mostly. Get a fridge, from the trash if possible, you can find them working order all over the place. Sometime for free, sometimes not. Look around you'll easily find one. Freecycle might be a good place to start.  Then you need a humidifier, something small. Another key component is airflow. The more the air is moving the less time any microbes has time to land on the meat and set up a colony. So first let's address the temprature.

A safe temperature range for curing meat is below 60F. Above that and bacteria grows a lot faster. Ideally you want the temperature between 50F and 60F. Below 50F and the curing process slows down a great deal, making the process take much, much longer. This will make it harder to get to a safe water content level if it's below 50 degrees. So 55 degrees is good.

You want the humidity between 70% and 75%. Below 70% and you run the risk of the outside drying out too fast, which means moisture is trapped on the inside, wich will lead to spoiling. If the humidity is really high for too long then the sausage wont dry correctly, and you run the risk of getting fuzzy meat. A fuzzy sausage or ham is no good for anyone.

Ideally when you first put something in to dry cure, you want the humidity at around 85%, and then over the course of the next week you want to drop the humidity down to 75%. The reasoning here is that you want your humidity just a bit less than the water content of the meat you are curing - this stops the meat drying out too fast and developing case hardening. At the start of curing the meat has a lot of moisture in it (especially leaner cuts), so you want your curing humidity to almost match that. As the meat looses water you drop the humidity down accordingly (or roughly anyhow). I accomplish this with a humidifier and a Dayton Humidifier Controller. Plug the humidifier into the controller. Plug the controller into the wall, and set the dial. It does the work for ya. I got mine for 40 bucks from wallmart. I have a power strip plugged into the humidity controller, and into that strip I have BOTH a humidifier and 2 fans plugged in. I got a Lasko Tower Fan Combo Pack from walmart for 50 buck. 36 inch tower fan, 3 different speeds, quite, and I got a small one that has a clip pointed to the side. I got my humidifer ontop of the 36 inch and a small peice of stainless steel (to prevent mist from getting ontop of the thing I worry about it being soaked that way). This is my meat curing chamber.

A good guide to help would be http://mattikaarts.com/blog/charcuterie/meat-curing-at-home-the-setup/

Now moving on. There is many different ways to make prosciutto. I do generally 7 different types of prosciutto. I use 2 types made from pigs least from the leg, I also do it with a loin. I do as well with duck breast, turkey breast, goose breast. Last but not least I do what I call everything proscuitto. It's made from the rest of the pig. Neck meat, cheeks, belly, back strap, hocks, ears, face, nothing goes to waste.

I generally do 2 different styles, one more of a cotto, and one more traditional. You can probably fine several recipes online for prosciutto, just need to type in homemade prosciutto. You can find a fortune worth of recipes. Traditional prosciutto can take 2 and a half years to cure.
My main two varients are below.

For every 2 and half pounds of meat:
1/2 cups Salt
1/4 cup cane sugar
1 pinch ground black pepper
1 Juniper berry (crushed)
1 very small garlic clove
1 whole clove
1 whole laurel leaf
1 lovage (levisticum, maggikraut) leaf or a few celery leaves

This get rubbed on, it's then put in the fridge for 4 days. Turn it twice, your food refigerator works best and in a container, I do it in zip lock bags. It releases it's juices making a brine. After 4 days I remove it and leave in cool water for 18 hours (change the water 4/5 times).
Boil the meat until done. Let cool. It's not quite what your looking for but it's wonderful in a pinch and don't have forever.

Then I got a more tradtional recipe.

1 pig leg, preferably the back leg
Salt
Pepper
Paprika

Take out the vein of the pigs leg

Place the pig leg on rack or chicken wire, to be salted

Rub generous amounts of salt over leg

Hang the leg up and leave for 40 days in a cool, ventilated place such as a wine cellar (as bad as it may sound it does work providing the temprature and humidity is right)

Continue to rub salt throughout the 40-day period (you can also mix paprika and pepper together - paprika has a strong smell that keeps insects away, wich was something taught to me in Modena when I visted a butcher shop and smelled the paprika.)

After 40 days of hanging, wash the leg well in vinegar, and cover

Again rub in salt and pepper

It's ready to serve at this point.

Some people do it longer depending on what their making. Prosciutto crudo will take 1-2 years, and it's done with a method I've never learned. They trim the ham of skin and fat, salt it, air dry it, and grease it with salted lard and cure it.

So it all depends on what your aiming for. The principals are all the same, but different regions have different standards.

mtncheesemaker

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2011, 05:36:09 PM »
Thank you Reg and Grendal!
I was lucky enough to find an extension agent in Virginia, who cures 150-200 "country"style hams every year with the 4-H there. (How did we ever find anything before the internet?!)
I spent an hour on the phone with him and he walked me through the process. It is similar to the Prosciutto type process but with the skin on. Luckily we have access to a walk in cooler that is used to store flowers so that is where the 2 25# hams are beginning their "cure". The hogs were killed on Friday, we salted them on Sat and put them in the cooler. I am going over there today to check on them.
I like the idea of doing smaller cuts occasionally, and some sausage. The hams are a big deal and it would be terrible to lose one to a bad cure.
Thanks again,
Pam

linuxboy

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2011, 05:48:01 PM »
Vid for prosciutto di parma



Process:
[url=http://www.prosciuttodiparma.com/lavorazione/tappe/]http://www.prosciuttodiparma.com/lavorazione/tappe/



Saltysteele

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2011, 01:16:05 AM »
i have a friend who came from croatia 30-40 years ago.  they cured hams like this, due to no money, really.  his main tip was to be sure you pack the salt in all the crevices, making sure to get it up into the shank area.  anything exposed will go bad

Offline george13

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2011, 10:01:33 AM »
Gredal, You writte a very informative passage above.  Somewhat inspiring as well, since I have been very anxious in trying my luck at prosciutto.  I was born in a part of Italy were this glorious meat originated, and every year my family makes it along with all the other dry products associated with the pig.  And yes, only salt.  Since relocating  very young I missed out on the practical aspects of the prep, so I have certain apprehensions about trying it.  I understand that the prep of the leg and exposure of the joint bone are crucial, as well as the steps that follow.  I am located in upstate NY, and was wondering what considerations I may need to take into account as far as aging (in Italy, the butchering took place in December, and in the summer we had prosciutto)  I have the pigs, so this may be the year.  I hope you don't mind if I ask you a question every now and then.
Thanks,
George

Offline george13

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2011, 10:16:23 AM »
One additional item, In Italy especially in the Parma region, they feed their pigs the protein rich whey from the parmigiano process, something I too am doing in raising mine.  Based on my conversations with family overseas, this also enhances meat flavor.

Offline DeejayDebi

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #11 on: August 19, 2011, 10:26:40 PM »
If you are in control of you meat from hoave to plate and know how it was raised handled and processed I would not hesitate to leave out the nitrates/nitrites but for store ought meat - I don't trust it.

mtncheesemaker

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2011, 03:10:52 AM »
Thanks everyone for all the info. The hams look good so far, hope they turn out.
Lb, that video inspires a "Pav"lovian response!  ;D
Pam

reg

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Re: Jumping into charcuterie...
« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2011, 01:17:50 PM »
" In Italy most prosciutto is cured only using salt and seasoning. Long ago they were salt cured and in clay jars up in the caves "

Yes that is very true but what we don't know is the amount of nitrate/nitrite that is in the salt that is used there. Most of their salts come from the sea and most (if not all)of their sea salts contain nitrate/nitrite as an impurity. If the water was drawn off close to coral reefs for instance the salt residue after drying would contain higher amounts of nitrate/nitrite than open water would

Nitrites/nitrate are a natural occurance in any type of life and death cycle.

Can you get away with not using nitrate in dried meats, yes you can but it will never be the same in taste, texture or colour if you were using salts that contain nitrate. You will also loose a lot more product due to the 'bad' guys invading and overwhelming the good bacteria.

In any case good luck to all with their curing projects

Reg